McCormick-Deering bad motor - which rebuilt kit??????

Dave Koenigsfeld · Oct 1, 2008

I"m trying to restore two McCormick-Deering 10-20s. They were my grandfathers. Motor guy just called and is giving up on the motor. The crank is seized and he can"t get the pistons out. Both motors definetaly had lots of water in them over the 50+ years of sitting. The guy says it needs a new cam/crank/pistons/pushrods etc.

Now what? I am not ready to give up but can someone tell me what other engines would use the same parts so I can get this motor going?

The project means more to the family to get them going so I need to exhaust all possiblities. I am trying to get them both to a tractor show in Charles City, IA next Labor Day. It would be great to have them running back on the home farm. Thanks so much for any help.

Dave
Nixa, MO

Anonymous-0 · Oct 1, 2008

Give Darrell a call at Alderson Tractor. Great guy, won't steer you wrong. Lots of parts for the older Farmalls.
Alderson Tractor

El Toro · Oct 1, 2008

I would try another auto machine shop to see if they can free the pistons with heat then use a hydraulic press. They have sleeves so they may press out with the pistons. The rods can probably be rebabbitted and L.A. Sleeve can make new sleeves if Rice Equipment doesn't have any. Pour lots of ATF on top of the pistons and let them soak. Hal

James Williams · Oct 1, 2008

I have found out that a machine shop is the worst place to take one of these motors to.There used to working on newer style engines and arent use to breaking motors loose,I douth if this motor needs every thing new,Theres a special trick to looseing these motors,its called a sledge hammer.fill the cylinders with deisel fuel and let it burn,do this several times while hitting the top of the pistons.I use a peice of 3/4 flat steel on top of the pistons to keep from damaging them and hit each one of them with a 20lb hammer.if you can use a 4ft pipe in the flywheel holes this works also.This sounds crude but Ive done about 10 of these type of motors,It is easier to leave the motor in the tractor,Usally 10-20 dont stick very bad,becaues of the way the manifold is

jimmy

Anonymous-0 · Oct 1, 2008

you could use parts from a w-30 mccormick as it is pretty much the same engine.the heads are interchangable, same pistons. the whole engine would probably fit right in. one diff. is that the w-30 has a water pump and 10-20 dont. just leave it off. i have used the w-30 head on 10-20 . the ordinary guy cant tell the diff.just that it has a flat spot on front to mount water pump.

Dave Koenigsfeld · Oct 1, 2008

All great comments! It is good to know that the w30 is a good donor. what about a 15-30?

James - dumb question...can you bend the crank by pounding on the pistons or do you take the lower cap off first?? I may start pounding on the other motor to get started.

El - we are looking at a guy in OK.

Jon - thanks for the link, I"m already looking at some tractors on his site 10-20!!!

thanks again, I really appreciate it.

Dave

Anonymous-0 · Oct 2, 2008

the 15-30 is a bigger engine. the f-20 i think is the same as yours.

spiffy1 · Oct 2, 2008

It doesn't follow numerical logic, but I think the F-30 actually has the same dimensions as the 10-20; not sure if an overhaul kit would interchange or not.

Regardless, I'll second or the third the concept, that you should be able free the pistons with the right combination a patience, finese and force then use the existing blocks.

Of course, I have a 22-36 which may be pretty stubborn [top exhaust selector had a large gap allowing water] staring at me right now, so I better bite my tongue. Naahhh, I'll get the best of it!

spiffy1 · Oct 2, 2008

As Rustred noted, the 15-30/22-36 is all around bigger.

moseed · Oct 5, 2008

(quoted from post at 19:37:55 10/01/08) All great comments! It is good to know that the w30 is a good donor. what about a 15-30?

James - dumb question...can you bend the crank by pounding on the pistons or do you take the lower cap off first?? I may start pounding on the other motor to get started.

El - we are looking at a guy in OK.

Jon - thanks for the link, I"m already looking at some tractors on his site 10-20!!!

thanks again, I really appreciate it.

Dave,
Disconnect the rod/s from the crank if you are going to beat on it. If your going to leave the crank in make sure the rods are away from the crank (after taking bearing cap off) so you minimize the potential of scracthing the journals should it give way and move significantly.
Big project and all the luck and money in the world!
Good luck.

Dave

Dave Koenigsfeld · Oct 7, 2008

Give Darrell a call at Alderson Tractor. Great guy, won't steer you wrong. Lots of parts for the older Farmalls.

I did connect with Darrell. He had a great donor tractor that just sold before I called him. I am trying one more local motor guy. If that fails, two motors are going up to Darrell for him to tackle.

McCormick-Deering bad motor - which rebuilt kit??????

Dave Koenigsfeld

Member

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member

El Toro

Well-known Member

James Williams

Well-known Member

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member

Dave Koenigsfeld

Member

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member

spiffy1

Member

spiffy1

Member

moseed

Member

Dave Koenigsfeld

Member

Similar threads