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Clutch on my M

F

F-Dean

Well-known Member
Help! The clutch on my M still does not release completely. If I start it in gear with the clutch in, it is okay. But, if I try to shift, the gears grind.
I have adjusted the levers all the way out but that does not help. Could the new clutch material be too thick? What thickness should it be?
 
It could be, but it is more likely that the disk is warped enough to drag when the clutch is pushed in all the way. Changing it is pretty easy W/O split.
Or the pilot bearing is dry and driving the clutch shaft when it should be free.
Or the splines are worn on the clutch shaft causing the new disk to run against the FW or PP.
A new/different good shaft will fix this. JimN
 
I reversed the clutch plate (Dish side is now out/rear) with no improvement. Which side should be "Out"/to the rear?
 
A "dish side" makes me nervous. There is a spring side, and a flat side. The spring side has a separate plate housing the torsion springs riveted to the main plate. The flat side shows the springs, but does not stick out.
The flat side goes toward the flywheel.
If it is a "organic" type disk, with full disks of friction material, the disks are flat as a pancake, no cupping at all.
If the disk is a "Puck" type with ceramic pucks on the end of arms, these should also lay flat as can be on a flat surface.
The pressure plate should provide that surface when it is off the flywheel.
If there is cupping it is not good.
The clutch shaft when stuck through the disk, and placed so it can be spun by hand (v block or such) will show if the disk is warped. When spun, it should show no more than 1/32" of runout (wobble). If it does it might be able to be straightened, but it must be true, and if it moves, it will drag. Best of luck.
JimN
 
Some have a saucer shaped peice on the back side. I assume this is to help sling oil and grease away from the disc in case there were ever a leak. Only one of my tractors is like that, I think its my newest M, but I wouldnt swear to it.
 
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