Early M runs hot

I have an M that wants to run hot. I bought it last summer and the guy had just put the head on it but never finished reassembling everything. I had it running but did not run it for nore han a few minutes. After it sat all winter it had antifreeze in the oil, I put some sealer in it and today was the first time I ran it and worked it and it wants to run hot. I dont think I am getting water in the oil now. Could the head gasket have been flipped when he put it in ? Thanks for any help
 
If your stop leak fixed the coolant in the oil issue (I believe in using it as needed, Subaru and others use it as normal policy at all times in some models), then there may be other problems.
The radiator may be plugged up and not flowing. The thermostat could be stuck shut (the thermostat housing has such a large bypass port that they stay cool with a stuck shut thermostat unless worked pretty hard.
The block could have scale and rust in the block's water jacket.
The water pump impeller could be loose on its shaft.
A hose could be internally broken and flapped out into the flow of fluid causing restriction.
The timing could be retarded. It could also be advanced (probably not if it starts well)
Just some thoughts, JimN
 
I experienced something similar with my W4. I used a little stop leak to temporarily fix a pinhole in my water jacket cover. I've since fixed the water jacket, but it seems to overheat when plowing/working hard (otherwise it's perfect in parades, etc.). I hope I didn't plug things up with the bars leak.

I'd like to check some things but have limited time and don't know how difficult it is to get into the thermostat, etc. (much less how to determine if it's bad). Maybe you could enlighten me, JimN? You always seem to be very knowledgeable.
 
Just a heads up. I had 2 radiators recored this summer. For my International 504 - $565.00 and a Ford Model T Ton Truck - $588.00 Both took about 6-7 weeks as they send the cores out to have new ones made the correct size.
 
The thermostat is in the bulging cast iron "blob" at the top radiator hose. It comes apart rather easily. New gaskets can be cut from NAPA .030" gasket paper by using a ballpeen hammer and tapping the gasket material gently all around the edges of the removed half of the casting (including the holes) the resulting gasket is perfect.
Place the thermostat in a coffe can (or the like) and heat it on the stove. Use a candy thermometer to check the opening temp. If the water boils it is toast (in this case).

Other issues are gow much water will flow through the radiator and out the bottom hose (disconnected) if it is restricted, it will flow less than you can pour in the neck. JimN
 

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