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Get the rod out?

M

Mac DeBusk

New User
I'm rebuilding an old IH 340 Utility gasoline that threw a rod a few years ago. It sat out in a gravel parking lot from then until last week. So far I seem to be very lucky in that it appears the rod didn't damage the block. I'm stuck on one little issue though. The crankshaft has pinned the rod against the inside of the block and I can't seem to get the crank to turn backwards to release it.

I've tried:

Turning the crank pulley with a wrench on the crank nut. I successfully removed the nut--not a complete loss, but not what I was going for.

Shifting the tractor into reverse and pulling it forward a few inches with my truck. Took 4WD-L to accomplish this, and the crank didn't turn. I think the clutch slipped.

Up next: On the slim possibility that I need to turn the engine forward I may try shifting the tractor into 3rd and pulling it forward with my truck. (Can't get tranny into 4th or 5th right now.)

Anybody have any idea why I can't turn the crankshaft back a few inches to release its death-grip on that #1 piston rod?
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its probably stuck in 2 gears at once , kids maybe playing on it.pull the shifter out and check that the shifter rails are lined up . if not get a cat bar and move them into position.
 
Don't be pulling the tractor, you will damage someting in the drive train. Pull the engine off the tractor. The crankshaft probably needs to be ground undersize. Hal
PS: Cut the rod.
 
Mac,

Press the clutch pedal down to disengage the tranny, then put a pry bar inside the block and lever against the crankshaft throw for #2. As the crank is now straight up it is in the best position for this method to work. Pry the crank away from the jammed rod #1. Maybe there is room to put a wood block inside of the block wall so you are spreading out the forces from the end of the pry bar.

I'm trying to remember whether you can access the flywheel from the bottom (like a car often has a removable sheet metal cover under the flywheel). If so, you could pry on the flywheel, but use a piece of oak, not the metal prybar, if you are pulling against the ring gear teeth. Learned that the hard way.

Good luck!

Paul in MN
 
An item that was not mention that will prevent the engine from turning backwards is the sprag in the TA. If your tractor has a TA and the SPRAG is GOOD it will prevent the engine from turning backwards. Pulling the TA lever to the rear will release the TA clutch alowing the unit to turn backwards. Bottom line is, like already said, the engine has to be pulled out to remove the crankshaft from the block and have the crankshaft reground for undersize bearings.
 
Initially you could just try loosening all the other conrod caps to see if that would help solve your immediate problem. Though as several others have said I think you are going to have to strip and rebuild the engine. Best of luck. MTF
 
Sure would be a good excuse to purchase an Oxy-Acetylene torch. I'll have to see how the more sensible half feels about such a thing.
 
Thanks for that pointer. I'll be sure to check that before I go for my first test-ride after I finish the engine rebuild.
 
I was hoping that the drive train in the tractor would be tough enough that I wouldn't be able to break it with my little quarter-ton Nissan. Still, the voice of common-sense prevails here. Best to not force things too hard or I may end up breaking something I would rather keep. Thanks for the advice, I'll use a gentler approach in the future.
 
Rebuild is a given. I have been trying to accomplish this without removing the block, but I guess there is no way around having to remove the crank, and I can't do that with the block in the tractor. Still, that #1 piston rod has to come out before the crank is going anywhere, and the tractor sure makes a handy engine stand!
 
Pulling the TA lever back will release the TA clutch if the linkage is adjusted correctly. The sprag is inside the TA unit and it's job is to prevent the TA unit from turning backwards. Pushing the clutch down will also work, but here again the linkage needs to adjusted correctly. A lot of people know that when shifting the tractor out of gear when stopping when going up a slight hill the shift lever is diffucult to get out of get because the clutch is not releaseing the TA clutch but pulling the TA lever back the unit shifts fine. Hope this helps
 
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