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Farmall 504 Weak Hydraulic Continuin' Saga

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Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
Looked on the I. D. plate....
9291 T W Y FF
Goin' by My manuel T = cotton picker attachment, W = forward and reverse, Y =12 gpm pump, FF =4.5 gpm pump.....So I must have 2 Hyd pumps? Photo in manuel shows pumps bolted together. How do I know which one is bad? Big problem is cost of new pumps....Over $300.oo for one. So far I haven't found any repair kits. Have found a 504 with blown engine, pumps might be good. If They arn't the same gpm, will They work? Pumps can be Cesnna or Thompson...Guess the only way to know is like the doctors do...open Her up. Don't really want to but I sure don't want to junk this tractor..Thanks for the answers to My earlier questions, any more suggestions ?

Thank Yaw'l
Wild Bill
 
Wild Bill, don't trash that 504 yet. I have a 504 diesel wide front (aftermarket), 3712 S-X-Y. The pumps are bolted together, sharing the input shaft. The 12gpm runs the power steering and the remotes and the 4.5gpm runs the 3 point only. Different, larger pumps will work, they were an option.

I have a new Koyker loader installed on mine and changed the original 12gpm to a 17gpm. A larger filter is required and I am waiting on mine to come in. So far it has been a good tractor. I have been slowly replacing parts and plan to repaint it to its original 50HP glory once I finish repairing the oil leaks.

I have pictures of mine if interested.

Charles
 
As I said in my first response to your questions, the front pump is the big one and powers the P/S and remotes. The smaller (piggyback) pump powers the hitch only. If any repair kits exist, they will only have seals and O rings in them. These pumps have aluminum center housings, with wear in the bearings, the steel gears score the aluminum housing increasing clearances and there goes your pressure. Not rebuildable.
 
I do appreciate all the replys....Seems like the worst it can be would be havein' to buy a rear pump....Tractor is most certainly worth that much. I went back to the shed with a flashlite to look at the I.D. plate....an it is a Y, no doubt. Feel like I got lucky findin' the other 504 Diesel....I really don't need a tractor as big as a 504, We own a Cub, 2 As, 1 Super A, 240 utility, and a Mahindra 350, truckpatchin' a few acres (organic )but it sure is nice to have a tractor that can pull a 3 bottom plow, a chisel plow or whatever

Thanks Wild Bill
 
Tractorman: I'm not sure your concept of which pump powers what is correct. The 504 may be different, however using a semi-mount plow on 656 and large chassis 06, 56 and 66 tractors, hitch is on same pump with remotes, or at least tied in some way. I'm not an engineer or a mechanic however when you pull both 3 point lift and remote for rear of plow at the same time, the hitch will raise to full height before the remote starts to lift the rear of plow.
 
Hey Hugh,
Going from memory alone as my books are at the shop.

On the large frame tractors 06,56,66 the front pump powers the TA, P/S, brakes, lube, feeds the oil cooler, Ithink that's all. The rear pump powers the 3pt and remotes.

On the 656, the front pump powers the P/S thru a flow divider and then the remotes. The piggy back pump powers the 3pt and the internal plumbing is such that the rear pump can feed thru a check valve into the remote circuit when the hitch is not being used> Not the other way around because of the check valve.

On the 504, I don't think the hitch pump can feed into the remote circuit but I am not sure.

As far as the semimounted plow, have NO experience. We always used chisel plows and heavy disc harrows around here.
 
Tractorman: The 504 is top link sencing, right or wrong? I didn't have my 504 long enough to find out. I know 656 and large chassis were all lower link sencing. The only three I ever used on semi-mount plow were 656, 766 and 1066. At about 4-5 mph if you pulled hitch and remote at same time, hitch went all the way to top before the remote cylinder at back of plow started to lift. This worked well on 5 bottom plow, as it ended all furrows at same point. Made for nice square headlands. For that reason, I determined there has to be a fluid connection between hitch and remotes. It was the same going into the soil, hitch went first before rear remote started to lower.
 
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