Super M Clutch Linkage Fluid Leak

Georgegn

New User
I just bought a 1953 Super M. It seems to run pretty well, and was repainted, but it has a few problems, and lots of loose bolts. I noticed there was hydraulic fluid running down the side below the gas tank, slightly in front of the battery. There is a humped cast iron piece under there and it appears to have a gasket under it. I soon discovered that the bolts holding that piece down were loose, one so loose I could turn it with my fingers. I have not had a chance to see if that solved the problem, but a local old farmer told me that if that does slow the leak, I should replace the gasket. However, I dont know what that part is called, and neither did he. He also did not know where the hydraulic pump is, but said it might be under that piece. In addition, he said the fluid looked foamy (which it does), and he said there might be some water in it, told me to drain it, but could not tell me where to drain it from.

Can anyone help me with this. Does anyone have a drawing that shows where the pump is located, where the drian plug is, etc. Do I need to replace that gasket if the leak is stopped? And how did water get in there, or was it from the leaky gasket.

I"m asking a lot of questions, because this farmer seems to know a lot of stuff about this old machinery, but he"s the kind of guy who tends to find fault with everything, likes to make every job as complicated as possible, and is not always right (from past experience). For example, one of the rear wheels slipped about 3/8 inch on the axle. (I could see that from the 3/8" of unpainted shaft on the new paint). I tightened the 4 bolts and everything seems tight now. I am not sure why, but he insists that I must jack up the tractor, loosen these 4 bolts, and retighten them. He said you can not tighten a wheel when it"s against the ground. I honestly can not make sense of that. The bolts were loose, I tightened them, and that should be enough (I think).

Another thing. He claims the clutch is probably ready to be replaced, because the linkage can not be adjusted ant further. He did not drive the tractor, and I know it drives well, and went up and down hills with no problems or slipage. Now here"s how I see it.....

Someone made a bracket for the clutch pedal lever, because where at lever attaches to the shaft (by the brake), it"s very worn. The homemade bracket keeps it upright. I already know that I should replace that lever, or put a sleeve in there. So, that would account for part of the reason the linkage is adjusted out to it"s limit. But there"s more to it. Someone added an extension to the bottom of the clutch lever, so the shaft is actually almost 3 inches lower than it would have been originally. This looks homemade, it appears something was once bolted on to that side and they modified the linkage to clear whatever was there.

However, I am not totally sure if that extension was an add-on, or was original, but compared to the regular Farmall M, and a H, neither have that extension. Does anyone know if that extension is something they used on the SUPER M, or is this a modification? (A CLOSEUP PHOTO WOULD HELP).

If this extension was an add-on, it"s obvious the linkage is going to be too short. That farmer told me that the add-on is NOT original, yet he can not comprehend why the linkage is too short, and insists that the clutch is bad.

Sorry for rambling on, but I"m no expert on these tractors, and getting advice from that guy is often a waste of time. I know his machinery is always broken down, so it"s hard to accept what he says as fact.

I"d appreciate some help and if possible drawings/photos.

George
 
The clutch-brake pivot shaft is most likely worn as well as the clutch pedal; I have re-bushed the pedal and replaced the shaft to bring the clutch back to where it was from the factory. Common problem with pedal wear.
If the pedal has been modified, I would replace it first and then determine if the shaft is needing replacement also.
It would be best if the axle clamp bolts were tightened with the wheel off the ground; each bolt should be snugged up evenly so the cast clamp is not warped from 1 bolt tightened too much. Sort of like torquing a cylinder head evenly.
Sounds like you would be wise to tighten all the fasteners on the tractor.
Please invest in an owners manual. Look on this web site or check Binder books.
 

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