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Engine tune-up

W

wallacedw

Member
I would like to ensure my 400 is giving her all. I don't have a tach.. it's face is broke. What tools do I need? I have the operator's manual and shop manual but am not sure how to start/proceed. Anyone have idea's on where I can go to get educated?

My float valve sticks and I assume that would be causing a rich condition?
 
If that carburetor has has a main jet adjustment you may need to close it to lean the fuel mixture.
It should look similar to the one on this B&S carb. Hal
62pv03k.jpg
 
For a tune-up guide look to your left when on the Farmall forum under Research & Info and click on Tune-up Guide. It covers alot. Adjust the valves too. Hal
 
First thing to address is the carb. I would say rebuild it before that sticking float causes some engine damage. Then and only then do things like replace the cap, rotor, points, condenser and plugs. Maybe even the plug wires if they are old
Hobby farm
 
This is a question... because I really have no idea..

How can a sticking float cause engine damage? I understand fuel can enter the crankcase, right? I have started closing the fuel valve and if I forget I drain the carb bowl.

Oh.. no use for a seperate post, I guess.
Guess what the newbie learned TODAY?? If a spark plug wire is off a plug the engine just sounds a bit off. No chugging, spitting, snorting I would have figured. Still want to tune her up.
 
I'm just guessing, but you did not grow up keeping some beater '50's or '60's car running.

Tools are pretty basic, socket set, 1/2" and 9/16" box end wrenches, spark plug socket, ratchet, straight blade screw driver, set of feeler gauges, ignition wrenches (the nut that holds the spring on the points is an odd size like 9/32" or 11/32"), flashlight and reading glasses (depending on your age).

You might want to read up on how a four cycle engine, carburators, and a distributor work.

Carbs have a few more parts, but they are fairly simple too. MOstly you need to make sure that the float does not leak, The needle and seat work right (open and close when they should), that all the small idle passages are clean, and that it is assembled and adjusted correctly.

Only work on one thing at a time. Get the ignition tuned up before you tear into the carb. That way you will have fewer things to look at to figure what went wrong if it does not work out the first time through. Do not be afraid to try, try, and try again until you get it right. It can be very gratifying when you do get it right.

Greg
 
Sticking float causes and engine to run way to rich. That in turns cause the cylinder to get washed down by to much gas and that in turns cause cylinder damage due to little or not oil on the rings. And then in turns cause scoring of the cylinder walls and or broken rings etc. Run an engine to rich or to lean either one can/will cause major engine problem that can/will cost big $$ to fix
Hobby farm
 
I was born and raised in bush Alaska and have spent the rest of my life in the Marine Corps... so no.. not familiar with older vehicles. I have every tool pretty much known to man and I am fully versed in diesel and gas engine operation.. I just don't understand it all..
 
Some basic carb info here. The float, rides on the fuel in the bowl. When you are driving the tractor the needle seat will almost never stick closed. Vibration will open it.

When you park and shut down, the needle may not seat/close. causing leakage. You won't get a rich mixture running from a "sticky needle". You would get zero fuel and starvation.

If the float is set too "high" that is it shuts off late, then you get fuel overflow and leak while running. Too high fuel level in carb doesn't mean too rich. That is determined by the load screw seting to the discharge needle. Float set too low, and then you can have a lean situation.

You need to tell us why you think the carb "float is sticking". Better yet, just send the carb to "rusty farmall" and make sure it is
("100% balls on calibrated,It's an industry term") (from My Cousin Vinnie).
 
I have an email into Rusty to find out how much it is. I have been told here it is sticking because it floods the engine on a cold start unless I shut off the fuel petcock.
 
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