All Electrical Gurus Farmall 130

My Farmall 130 has been converted to 12 volt alternator, and with few exceptions it has worked well for 15 years. This is a Delco very simple arrangement with a push button to excite the alternator after tractor starts.

Back in Jan., I bought a new factory type starter switch from CaseIH. In May that starter switch stuck, not enough to turn starter, but it was making contact. At the end of the day I started the tractor, moved it 10', and shut it off. I started for the house, and remembered an item I wanted from the tool box. As I approached the tractor I could hear bubbling like a boiling, and could smell a sulphur smell. Quickly I discovered the stuck starter switch, and uncoupled the ground cable. I figured both starter and battery would be cooked. I got some penetrating oil sprayed up around starter switch, got it working free. I put the ground back on and it started. Next morning it started fine and did for next 1.5 months. The battery being 6 years old then started going dead overnight. Two weeks later it wouldn't crank the engine, which didn't surprise me given the age of the battery and what had happened.

Last week I purchased a new battery. This tractor like my SA and 140, all wired the same never crank more than 5 seconds until they are running. A push of that excite button and amp gauge jumps to 15-20 amp range then back to 0 within 30 seconds. The problem I'm having with 130 is the amp gauge indicates 15 to 20 amps after I push the excite button at beginning, quickly coming back to 10 amps and there it stays. If I don't push the botton, amp gauge will stay at 0. Could the stuck starter switch have damaged the built in regulator in the alternator, back two months ago? Could this new Delco battery not have reached full charge yet? I guess I could disconnect battery and hook up battery charger see if it shows amps being drawn. Am I missing something? I don't want to over charge this new battery. It cranks the tractor as if it's already at full charge. Your thoughts please.

What's the charging voltage reading at the battery?

Bob: Volt meter is calling it 13-14 with tractor running.

That would seem to rule out a bad voltage regulator.

Bob: I just went out and checked voltage with tractor not running, and it's close to 13 volts. The tractor hasn't run more than 35 minutes total since I installed the new battery, and in that time probably a dozen starts. I'd like to sort this out before I start to work it.

Use a battery hydrometer to check the specific gravity of each cell ---if they have removable caps. At 13 volts with engine not running, they should show full charge.
The regulators don't need a reason to go bad, they just do sometimes. Easy to replace.

(quoted from post at 17:40:44 08/07/08) Bob: I just went out and checked voltage with tractor not running, and it's close to 13 volts. The tractor hasn't run more than 35 minutes total since I installed the new battery, and in that time probably a dozen starts. I'd like to sort this out before I start to work it.

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5 minutes run time and a dozen starts! That averages less than three minutes charge per start. That could be the reason for the 10 amp reading. Is the battery losing fluid? If not let it run but keep an eye on things. David.........

WHY do you think he needs a new regulator, if the charging voltage is in the 13 to 14 Volt range????

Hugh -

I doubt you damaged anything! Your voltage readings are right where they should be. The issue instead is you're not running the tractor enough to fully recharge the battery as David (below) points out.

Also....there's a very good chance the new battery was partially discharged when you installed it. Your subsequent brief run times have not been enough to bring it to a full charge. Thus the constant 10 amp reading on the ammeter as the alternator works to recharge it to 100%.

If it concerns you, suggest sticking a charger on on overnight to fill up the battery. I'll bet then the ammeter will return to running near center.

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Give my best to Marg!! ...Bob

Dave: While the average run time may be three minutes, the most recent start was 20 minutes of that 35 min. Quite possibly as Bob M mentions, the new battery may have been not near full charge. It's a 550 cca battery and in this warm weather startng my 130 doesn't draw a lot of amps. It always starts in less than 5 seconds cranking time. It has always been that way even in winter at -20.

I'm thinking if I hook up my charger with battery disconnected from tractor. If it draws 10 amps same as alternator, I can be assured the alternator has been doing what it should do. What surprised me on this, I've not had a new battery draw this level of amps this long in recent memory. Then when I think about it SA, 130 and 140 are the only place I have an amp guage. I put a new battery in my F-150 three weeks ago, I know it immediately started charging at 14 volts, but I have no idea how many amps it drew or for how long.

Soon as daylight comes I'll hook up charger, I'll let you know results.

Bob: Read my responce to Dave, I think you may have it nailed. We put new batteries in our cars and trucks, we know they charge 13-14 volts, however we never check how much or how long it's drawing amps.

I will pass the message along, you assure Glenda of the same

Thanks to you all, new battery is sealed, thus hydrometer is out. It's probably as simple as a new battery not up to full charge. I think back to other batteries I've installed, I probably put the tractor to work for several hours and never looked back. I know the last one was SA and I went Woods mowing for 2.5 hours, following new battery.

The thing that had me concerned with this one was possible damage the stuck starter switch might have done. Quite annoying, a person removes the original 50 year old starter switch, replaces it with new one off CaseIH shelf and within 4 months it screws up. It's probably a good thing I'm becomming and old man, not sure how many more year I can stand the level of quality we generally get for our dollar in 2008. My good wife has an operating electric can opener same age as the 130. I rest my case.

I went out this morning started 130 to move it to charger, very quickly amp gauge went back to 2-4 amp range. Hooked up charger, tractor not running, same thing 2-4 amp range. I'm thinking battery was just reaching full charge as I shut it down last evening.

Again, Thanks to all those who responded. Just never feel like burning up a new battery.

A battery is like a barrel of water. When using the starter it is like dipping water out with a pail. When the generator or alternator charges, it is like adding with a cup. When the barrel is full, the trickle charge is like using a teaspoon.

teddy: True, but depending on how fast the tractor fires up, could affect the size of the pail. The size of the pail will affect the size of cup.

Hugh,
14.2-14.5volts across the battery, is a good place to be above 1/2 throttle. I think it is just fine. What you heard boiling was the failed cell in the battery on its last gasp. The switch repair should be watched to be sure it does not repeat, it can burn down the "house" JimN