Fast Hitch Plowing

BOBM25

Member
What is the correct procedure for using a fully mounted fast hich plow? I have a SMTA with a fast hitch from a 450 and a 3-14 model 311 plow. My plow has a gauge wheel. I'm guessing that I lock my side play, put the pin in at the bottom of the fast hitch cylinder so my draft control will work, and also lock the fast hitch arms from pivoting. I've only ever been around semi-mounted 3pt plows and always "played" with trip plows. I don't want to break anything. I've seen alot of broken and welded up fast hitches before, and so far mine is in tact, but its no fun to just look at.
 
We always allowed side to side motion on the plow and disk. The lans slides and points/shares keep it where it should be. If they do not they are dull. Wheel location needs to be set, as there is usually no adjustment on the plow.
The lower link does need to be in the cylinder to allow draft control. The draft control is marginal at best. JimN
 
Dad had a 350 with a 3-16 fast hitch plow, and I believe they said to leave the pin out of the bottom of the cylinder so the plow would float some. If locked solid, it would try to force the plow in the ground when you lowered it. You are right that the sway pin needs to be out to let it move sideways. We never used the draft control Kept the lever locked down. Just used the hydraulic lever to control plow.
 
If I remember correct your right leave the bell crank pin out and sway limiter free, pin in left lift link, level crank collar in top set hole and two point socket pins out of the lock holes.
If you have the lift cylinder like a 450 with cylinder stop rod, set the rod to limit plow depth. If uneven ground or crossing field ditches that doesn't work the best though. Soil type I plowed with traction control hitch would work good enough to cause front wheels to float off ground if set to full or next to full in some places.
 

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