where to start farmall super c restoration

Decide what you want to do.

A simple paint job and tires will make your tractor look nice.

Beyond that, decide on how much you want to spend. Anything less than $5000 is probably not going to result in a restoration to 'showroom' condition. Gearbox bearings can run over $100 a piece. An engine rebuild can be thousands, especially if you have some one else do the work.

Second step, get the manuals, a parts book, a picture book, and find a nearby dealer with someone behind the parts counter who knows what you are talking about when you say 'Farmall'.

Less practical advice, start with all the parts that don't show. The transmission, the hydraulic block, the steering gear box, rebuild the engine and oil pumps. Save the tin and the paint for last.

Use the tractor as much as you can. Super Cs are great tractors.

All the best.

Greg
 
Now that's a loaded question! But a good one. Depends what you want for an end product.

Restore means different things to different folks. To some it means detail down to the point of chasing down dot-head bolts that you broke in taking it apart or to replace those that have been replaced in the past with Grade 2, 5 or 8. Those same folks will paint with an acrylic enamel of the type originally used . . . These are typically strictly show tractors, shedded to reduce fading and very rarely do any work.

The next level is much more common. Folks doing it will call it a restoration. The folks in the first group, as long as they're being polite, would call it a refurbishment. That is to strip everything down to the degree needed to repair a mechanical problems (leaking seals, noisy bearings, frequently a motor job), and use the paint of their choice (from affordable and durable to automotive paint). Level A of this type would include making an effort to get things like the original style hose clamps and gauges, and cloth-loom wiring harnesses with the wovwn insulation on the wires. Level B might do the same work but use, for example, the more readily available plastic-loom harnesses and a different style hose clamp. In either case, folks in this group will put good effort into prepping the iron and tin for paint, and look for a good paint job.

Next level is to make the mechanical repairs, and simply clean it up and touch up the paint where rust is a problem, so that you wind up with a machine that is a perectly good working tractor, just not especially showy.

Lowest is what we call the DuPont restoration. Get her so she'll run, hit her with a wire brush, maybe even pressure wash her, and paint her, maybe even with rattlecans, and clap some decals on.

The very first is a time consuming and costly proposition. I've never done one.

The second (both Levels a and B) are far more common. They can still take some time, depending on experience, resources and the condition of the tractor. I've done one of those, and one of the third.

The last is generally done in a attempt to dress up a tractor with mechanical problems for sale.

My SuperC is my working tractor. It got the third level treatment. A motor rebuild, a new throwout bearing while she was split, new rear rims and tires all around, and some other odds and ends. Her paint was faded but tight and she went back to work.

My baby, a family tractor, a BN, was stuck and a certifiable mess when I got hold of it. She needed tearing down to the point that I had every bolt, seal and most of the bearings out of her before the job was done, but I approached it that way from the beginning. Stripped away all the tin to leave just the iron chassis standing on the running gear. Hot-washed and sand-blasted all of that, and went to work. HAving taken some precautions, it wasn't much of a job to clean up the little residual blasting grit as I went along. Tin and smaller parts were cleaned up and primed and painted along with replacement parts and bolted back to the painted chassis. Motor rebuild, tranny work . . . A lot of effort, salvaging as much of the original as possible, keeping any replacement parts as close to original as possible (though not the dot-head bolts), and an entirely too expensive paint that I would not have used on any other tractor. Being the cuss-ed sort that I am, though, and being no fan of the correct police, I saved a couple of the bent nails that my great-grandfather used to replace cotter pins, and put them right back where he left them. One of them is in that throttle linkage I wrote about the other night.

Assuming your intentions put you in the second group, I think you're starting out right. Change out all your fluids, give her a good routine maintenance going over, get the motor running as well as you can and use the tractor as is for enough time to identify problems that will need fixing. Leaky seals, noisy bearings or partiularly noisy gears, balky clutch, low compression, too much steering play . . . and that pesky Touch Control.

What you find will help you lay out a plan and order of attack for the work that needs to be done.

Good luck. Keep us posted and don't be bashful about asking for help. There's plenty of folks here and elsewhere that are happy to help.
 
You can do as the landlord did with his Deere's---painted them first, & then went after mechanical problems. Always bellyached when the paint got skinned.
Of course he liked to paint more than do mechanical repairs.
I would fix leaks & do mechanical repairs first---then paint.
 
Scotty pretty well covered it. I'm definitely a type "A". If you decide to go all the way it will be a lengthy and expensive project. I typically spend 2-3 years on my tractors and part with around $5,000. To do it right is a lot of work. First, I get the IH parts and operator's manuals. Then I disassemble the tractor down to the last lock washer, clean and bag evreything in ziplocks according to assembly group. The best way I've found to get through it without becoming overwhelmed is to treat it as alot of small to medium projects rather than one huge one. I completely restore each subassembly before starting to put it all back together. I treat each as it's own project, I restore a carb, then a starter, then a govennor etc. focusing only on that single component. In time, all are complete and I look back and wonder how I did it. I am at that stage right now with my Super H. It is indeed an exciting time!! I bought this tractor in Jan. of 2003 and started on it in the fall of that year. I took some time off after almost killing myself in a hunting accident and now here we are. The Red Power Roundup is only 60 miles away next summer, perfect timing.
 
I am keen to do all the work for myself mainly because I have the time. However I don't have the skills or the available finances to go the whole way. So I guess I normally end up somewhere between A and B situation. But they usually look good and run OK. Lots of people own Immaculate , Perfect tractors but who have never had dirty hands. So its what we call a "cheque book renovation" Don't get me wrong I don't have a problem with that, so long as the tractor is brought back to life thats just fine. Ultimately the really important thing is for you to enjoy it. Let your personal satisfaction be the measure of your endeavours and not toooooo much of comparisons with maybe richer and more experienced folks MTF
 
One tip I have for you is when you take the bolts out, find the bolts in the parts book and throw them in a bag or manilla envelop and throw the part number on it. There is a few guys i know who got a little excited and threw all the bolts in a bucket and when it came time to put it back together, it took them quite a while digging through the bolts trying to find the correct ones. Saves you many hours and keep you more organized. Thanks, andy
 

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