Hydraulic pump drive shaft on an H.

OK guys you've all been lots of help with this job. One more question. Someone got back to me about removing this. Here's a quote from his advice:
"Pull the cotter pins and slide the collars back, the hydraulic pump drive shaft will come out. Unscrew the coupler off the rear shaft. Remove the seal flange (3 bolts). Put the new seal in and put it all back together." My question this time around involves unscrewing the coupler! Once I removed those pins and moved the collars the shaft just dropped out. The way I read this reply I took 'unscrewing' the coupler to mean that it would spin off. I tried screwing the thing off with a wrench handle and it wouldn't budge. Can't get the seal flange off without first getting this coupler off. Tell me again how I'm supposed to do this? Thanks in advance.

PS: How do I reply to an individual response such that the guy who wrote the response will get it ... even if I respond in a couple of days ... as far as I know a guy would have to dig back into the history of the chatter to see that someone's replied to his advice? Thanks.

Seems like the coupler is a left-hand thread.

I've never replaced belly pump seals yet, but wouldn't it be easier to remove the whole pump from the tractor and replace them? I don't know if you have a I&T manual for your H, but I know my I&T manual says how to rebuild the belly pump.

The coupler has right hand threads, what I have done is to find a piece of steel that fits in the slot and hammer on the end, it will come loose then, put the tractor in gear too, that way the gears won"t turn while you are trying to get the coupler loose.

You must remove the pump from the tractor.
Remove the pump from the oil resservoir.
place a 1/8 x3/4 x 6" bar through the hole in the top of the pump to lock the gears.the coupling has right handed threads.
National seal # is 357970
Car quest # is 470135
Good Luck

I've never done the pump on mine, so I'll defer that question to those below.

As far as replying, if the person with the answer included an e-mail, you can use the "send email" at the lower right side of the message. If they didn't include an e-mail in their reply, you can always start a new thread about follow-up to xxxxxx.

Keith

Are you removing the seal on the pump or on the pump drive coming out of the transmission?
Pump has to be removed to work with its seal; the drive coupler is removed from the transmission by locking the brakes, put the shifter in reverse, and use a pipe wrench or tool that fits the slot and turn lefty-loosey.
It is tight but will spin off when loosened.

i have two h,s and been into 2 more never ever had to take the pump out to change that seal on the pump take a piece of keystock that fits the slot and weld it to a half inch drive scocket put it on a impact wrench dunno maybe i just got lucky :shock:

Put the tractor transmission in 1st gear, lock both brake pedals down, place chocks in front of and behind the rear tires, and then get underneath the tractor with a big ol" pipe wrench. The pipe wrench will mar up the surface of the coupler, but that won"t really hurt it any. The key stock in the slot is a better way, but not everyone has that size of key stock just lying around.

Rusty, with respect, the trans in 5th will be much more difficult to turn than in low. I know you know this. Jim

DUH!! Don't do as I say, do as I'm thinking. 'Course, it's kinda hard to interpret my thoughts over the internet.

Been there often! Jim

I had a hard time getting the countershaft nut off of an H. It would not budge. I knocked the plugs out of the shifter so I could pull the shifter out. I took a long narrow bar and shifted two of the shift rails into gear. This puts the transmission into two gears at the same time. This holds the shafts from turning and you don"t get any movement like you do when it is in one gear and trying to move. I made a special socket to fit the nut. I took a steel pipe coupler that was 1 3/4 inch inside diameter. It slides snuggly over the countershaft nut. I cut two grooves in the pipe coupler 1/2 inch wide about 5/8 inch deep. The grooves need to be straight across from each other. I welded a piece of 1/2 inch key stock in the grooves in the coupler. I welded a pipe plug in the other end of the coupler. I had my belly pump out so I had room to put a 3/4 inch long handle ratchet with a 1 3/8 inch socket on it. (It fits over the square end of the pipe plug in the coupler) The reason I made the socket is so it keeps the countershaft nut from spliting in half. I have had that happen. With the special socket, it supports the outside of the nut while there is force on the inner groove. If you don"t have the belly pump removed and are limited for space, then you can use a large crescent wrench or pipe wrench on the pipe coupler/special socket. You will need two new 5/8 inch flat drive in steel plugs when you put the shifter back in. You can get them at most napa stores. Hope that this helps.