Farmall B-rims

Dave H (MI) · Jul 27, 2008

Just when I thinks I am done for a while on this one I notice that the one "questionable" rear rim (with the welds) has lost one of the aforementioned welds and I can see the tube. Since the other side is pretty decent I am thinking a nice used rim without welds is in order. Any tips on what I am looking for and do I have to disassemble the current rim to measure it? I thought I would run an ad and see if someone might have one to bring to the show in Chesaning next month.

ScottyHOMeY · Jul 27, 2008

Hi, Dave.

Nobody else is jumpin' in, and you know how I hate to expound! ;8^)

The most common rim was 8". If you've got 9.5x24s on it, pretty good chance the rim is 8", as long as it doesn't appear to be excessively balloned out fro the rim. How to define that . . . If the sidewalls look round, you might have a seven-inch rim, if it has a curve similar to a car tire, likely it's 8.

You can jig together a measurement with a helper (or some tape to hold your ruler in place) place a ruler between the wheel and rim. Do your best to line up the zero-point with the outside of the bead flange on one side of the rim -- I'm not sure how else to descibe it, but it's not the outside of that last little lip, it's the last surface fairly perpendicular to the floor, if that makes sense. Measure the distance to the same point on the other side. Round down to the neared inch to allow 1/4-3/8" for and you should have the nominal width of your rim, and can go shopping from there.

Dave H (MI) · Jul 27, 2008

I'm glad you did. It has gotten positively dead around here! Of course I haven't been posting a lot myself...mostly 'cause all that bad advice I got last summer has the B running like a top and it left me with nothing to do but play with an old Ford! I'd love to work on the B more but there just isn't anything wrong with it. Soooo, I am going to fix up the 2N and then do some work on the crawler all in hopes that I can buy another Farmall next Spring! Thinking about a Super A or a C. Something with touch control and cultivators so I can tell mother it is all about the "garden". Hope all is well. Dave

ScottyHOMeY · Jul 27, 2008

Oh, yeah, the crawler! Heheheheheh! ;8^) Father, forgive me . . .

I've got a SuperC and can recommend it as a good project with a handy and useful tractor as an end result.

Don't know if you saw my exchange the other day with Keith-OR about how I'd like to switch out the wide front for narrow on my SuperC. It'd be a lot handier for me in some ways but, either way, the C/SuperC is a nice size tractor, and more versatile than the A or B/BN.

On its own you'll be surprised at the difference in what you can do with it beyond your B, if only from the difference in configuration. Built up with new sleeves and pistons (all with larger displacement than the originals, which is all that's available anymore), those differences only get amplified with the additional power.

Not to say that you could drag the same plows with it, but a rebuilt SuperC doesn't come up too much shy of an early stock H for power. She'd have a half-acre garden cultivated before she even warmed up.

And if that don't fire up the missus, I don't know what would.

Good to hear from ya!

Anonymous-0 · Jul 27, 2008

Its hard to say which size you now have after all these yrs as several sizes were avail. Just measure your rim outside to outside if it measures 9in you have an 8in one. If it measures 8in you have a 7. What size tires do you have now. As the other post said the 9.5 fits nice on the 8in. The new replacements do not have the same loops as original. Even the original ones had at least four different loops and the placements did vary. There is one style where the rim would rub on the diff housing when placed in the most narrow position and some later tractors even had a small groove in the final drive so rim could be placed in narrowest position. I have found out after havingmany As and Bs over the last few yrs the rims came from different manufacters lots were made by GOODYEAR.

Jim Becker · Jul 28, 2008

Gene hit a lot of good points. One of the reasons for the different styles of loops is that they had to be different for each width of rim. Needed to be to maintain the correct offset. I suspect that IH bought a lot of tires already mounted on the rims. So most or all tire supplier were rim suppliers, and THEY may hae been buying rims from whoever too. I know I have seen rims with Firestone's name stamped in.

One more tip on measuring. Don't measure the rim you are replacing, measure the one on the other side. After years of swapping tires around, some tractors end up with mismatched rims. If that happened to your tractor, you want to match the one you are keeping, not the one you are replacing.

Dave H (MI) · Jul 30, 2008

Good points! Thanks all! Dave

Farmall B-rims

Dave H (MI)

Well-known Member

ScottyHOMeY

Well-known Member

Dave H (MI)

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ScottyHOMeY

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Anonymous-0

Well-known Member

Jim Becker

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Dave H (MI)

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