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Leaking carb

W

wallacedw

Member
I visited this a while ago... my 400 has an intermittent drip from the carb.

I thought from the throttle thingy but now I am fairly confident it is coming from the choke shaft.

So do I change the carburator or will a rebuild kit fix it?

Rusty said fuel will leak into the oil if it is from the throttle shaft and I think I smell gas in the oil. Sure glad he told me or I would have been clueless.

Definitely belches black smoke trying to start. Some cylinders are firing slowly and the rest seem to join in. I have to keep the throttle to it's full stop until it starts going.

Anyway, what does the black smoke indicate and what about the leak?

In other news it seems to miss a bit (that little cough noise) once in awhile, I checked the rotor and I think it would help to get another. I cleaned the rotor and the distributor contacts and I think it helped a little.
 
Your carburetor is "running over" 'cause of crap in the inlet valve needle and seat, a defective inlet valve needle and seat, or a bent, mis-adjusted, or "heavy" float.

That is why the tractor is "flooding", as well as why there is gasoline in the carb inlet "air horn" that is leaking out past the choke shaft.

BTW, there is a sintered bronze filter in the bottom of the air horn that hould be letting the excess gas leak out BEFORE it gets "deep enough" to leak out past the choke shaft. It must be clogged with "varnish".

It's ALWAYS a good idea to shut the gas valve off at the bottom of the tank to avoid this from happening while the tractor sits unused.
 
A rebuild will fix that carb, but you may need a new float also. The float is not included in the kit. If you don't want to tackle that job yourself, send me an email.
 
Rusty will do a good job for you but a Farmall carb is not difficult to rebuild with the kit, instructions, and abundant access to this forum. If I did it, anyone can. Once you have it done, irregardless of who does it, learn a new religion: SHUT OFF the gas when you get off the tractor. Make it your mantra and repeat it over and over until it is second nature. It took me a while but I now do it every time I turn off the engine.
 
Shutting the fuel off underneath the tank is a good idea, but I never do it, and I've never had a problem. If the needle valve will not control the flow when the engine is off, then it is not controlling the flow while running either.
 
Rusty, can you shoot me an email with carb rebuild time/price and also how much for the rebuild kit alone. Since the tractor is more a toy I have the time to mess with it. Yet, a knowledgable put together is usually worth it.

[email protected]
 
Rusty,
Agree with almost everything you post, BUT I do disagree with this, a worn needle (all brass) can be "grooved" and not seal properly but function fine when being run because fuel is always moving thru the carb. And you were for sure in for an a$$ kicking if you ever left the shut off on a 2 cylinder Deere open.
 
Have you ever had one of those epiphany moments when it suddenly clicks in your mind what people have been trying tell you that you just couldn't wrap your mind around earlier?

The reason my tractor cranks so long and belches and coughs black smoke for so long and when it is running the smoke goes away... is because it is cycling through all that fuel built up in the carburator (indicated by the leak from the choke valve!)

DING!!!!

AND!! The reason it only did it in the morning is because it took all night to build up that much fuel!

Thanks all!
 
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