I have a 560 Farmall with d282 that has very little power and alot of blowby.I was told to pull the oilpan and see if it sucked a sleeve.I did that and it all looks ok.I need to know if this is a valve job or a resleeve and rering job.Can I pull the crank and cam from below?Any help would be greatly appreciated as I really like this old gal,and I can"t bring myself to send it to China in pieces.Thanks for your time!
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- Thread starter arkie
- Start date
Allan in NE
Well-known Member
Is it hard starting?
Allan
Allan
Brownie 450
Member
Are the lifters adjusted right? [correct gap]
(quoted from post at 15:56:02 07/17/08) I have a 560 Farmall with d282 that has very little power and alot of blowby.I was told to pull the oilpan and see if it sucked a sleeve.I did that and it all looks ok.I need to know if this is a valve job or a resleeve and rering job.Can I pull the crank and cam from below?Any help would be greatly appreciated as I really like this old gal,and I can"t bring myself to send it to China in pieces.Thanks for your time!
As far as your question about removing the crank and cam, you can remove the crank once you remove the engine from the tractor, until then there are a few things in your way. You can remove the cam from the front of the engine by taking the front engine cover off, then you will have access to the cam. Of course there are many more things involved in the process but, to answer your question, no the crank and cam cannot just be removed from the bottom of the engine.
Blowby is fairly common for a lot of old diesel engines, can you give us some more details about the engine, is it smoking from the exhaust and what color (warm, cold, under a load?)? Does it start easy or hard, How many hours are on the engine?
There are a lot of possible reasons why it has no power, it could be your injection pump, fuel filters, valves poorly adjusted or just a plain worn out engine.
Give us some more details and I am sure someone can help you out.
I appreciate your responses.I've had the tractor about three years.I don't know the hours or anything internal about the engine.Mostly used to bushhog and that's what I was doing when the tractor back-fired and blew caramel colored oil out of the exhaust stack.I had severe power loss and became even harder to start.I did notice when I pulled the oilpan that the lobe closest to the rear of the engine on the crank had marks on it as if it had bumped the sleeve or something.I ran my hand around and found nothing.Tractor will pull start now,but scared to run it anymore.Smokes like all get out also.Thanks again!
It was always hard to start,but it will only pull start now.I'm scared to run it too much.I was bushhogging and the tractor backfired and spewed caramel colored oil from exhaust stack.Hasn't been right since.Smokes something awful too.It smells like it is burning rich.Thanks!
I was bushhogging when the tractor backfired and blew caramel colored oil from exhaust.Ran great before then with some minor blowby.Now it's major blowby and exhaust that makes your eyes water.Smells rich with bluish color.Hours are unknown.Always cold natured but pull starts only now.Done it once,but scared to run more than that.Thanks for replying!
I have the same engine in my dozer & it did the same thing as what youre discribing & the only way I could tell what the damage was by taking off the clynder head & inspecting the sleves . I found that I had broke some rings. I did a inframe overhaul & dont ever use starting fluid any more. the 2nd time I did a inframe on it was due to injection pump malfunction & washed out the clynders & scored the sleves. GOOD LUCK!!
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
It sounds as if you have a piston or sleeve on the back cylinder that has come unglued. You had better not run it anymore or there is a good chance you will ventilate the block. You can remove the cam with motor in tractor but not the crank. Since you like the tractor and you really don't know any history of the motor, I would be inclined to pull the motor and do a major overhaul. If you want to get by on the cheap, the first thing I would do is pull a rod cap and a main cap and see what your bearings look like. If they look good then I would plastiguage them to see what kind of clearance you have. If all of this checks out then I would be comfortable doing an inframe overhaul with sleeves and pistons. If any of the bearings look suspect, don't waste your money doing an in frame. Also make sure to have the head checked out and have the valves ground to the correct specifications. If the valves are not done just right on this tractor it will start really hard. I'm afraid there is probably no real cheap way out of this.
Allan in NE
Well-known Member
Yep,
Baelee has this one pegged, for sure.
You didn't hear a "backfire"; it's a diesel. Something has come unstuck inside. Probably a sleeve/piston/dropped a valve or the like.
Don't run it; overhaul it.
Allan
Baelee has this one pegged, for sure.
You didn't hear a "backfire"; it's a diesel. Something has come unstuck inside. Probably a sleeve/piston/dropped a valve or the like.
Don't run it; overhaul it.
Allan
One of my sayings are { if its not broke,dont fix it}. You can do a in frame rebuild a lot cheaper & alot easyer than breaking the tractor in half. Most of issues should be the sleeves rings and/or pistons. Since you are pulling the head & allready have the pan off you can take out one piston connecting rod & bearings possibly the furtherest from the oil pump because its the last to get oil pressure & check for crankshaft damage. If no damage I would just do a in frame rebuild unless you have had issues with the clutch in the past then I would pull the engine. I think the last time for a rebuild kit was aprox.$850-900 with me doing the labor myself. GOOD LUCK!! P.S. there maybe a tractor co. on line that can get you a better deal than I got.
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