Carter Carb on Super A - question on disassembly

Does anyone here know how to remove the float pivot pin on a Carter 733S DO 1 carb off of a Super A? I cannot get the thing to budge, and I would like to replace the needle and seat which came with the carb kit. This pin and the float are not corroded/rusted, and there doesn't appear to be any sort of head on the pin.

Any help appreciated!

Farmboy856

Can you use a small diameter punch and push that pin out? Hopefully someone didn't solder the pin into place? Whatever you do, don't wreck the float, I'm pretty sure you cannot buy a new one.

Can holes in floats be soldered?

Yes they can be soldered but be sure not to add to much weight to it! Good luck - Matt

Float?
You don't need no stinkin' float!

Here's what I found in the carb of my used Super-A soon after I bought it!

Thanks for the help, guys! Last night I was able to get the pin out (it was just stuck really tightly) and put the castings into a bucket of carb cleaner.

The bad news is, the float is bad, which I had sort of expected. One side was full of gas.

I know you said that this float is no longer available, but I'm going to make few calls before I start scrounging through some of my used part contacts.

Thanks again!

Farmboy856

I've soldered one, and it works just fine. Not hard, but I'd offer a couple of thoughts.

You obviously need to get any gasoline out of the bulb before you solder. Not always easy. I cleaned up the whole outside of the bulb first (nothing more than a soft toothbrush dipped in a little plumber's flux and just enough heat to liquify the flux -- you don't want to be pokin' any more holes!). Then I used a 1/16" drill bit (smallest one I had) to make a small vent hole on the corner of the bulb as close to opposite the leak that I had as I could (drains more completely that way). Didn't drill it out to the whole 1/16, just enough to puncture a pinhole. The aim was to make a vent so it would drain better, and having the vent helped to show up where the leak was that let the gas in in the firt place. It was also small enough to solder back over easily.

The other is to have your your surface clean and prepped and your iron good and hot so you can work quickly. a) It couldn't hurt to clean and flux up all around the seam as well as the holes you know of before you start in case you get into trouble under "b". b) If you have to leave the iron on the bulb too long, you run the chance of getting the area surrounding your leaks too hot, and opening up a new leak in the solder that holds the two halves together. Alittle brake or carb cleaner to remove the excess flux and back in she goes.

I may be overcautious. I don't think the bulb would get hot enough during soldering to ignite the gas fumes left inside the bulb. All the same, once I got the gas out of mine, I submerged it in water and let it fill back up to purge the gasoline fumes, then redrained it (did that twice). To get any residual water out of it, I left it propped up with my vent hole at the bottom to rest overnight. Next day I heated it lightly with a torch but enough to evaporate any water inside. Did that twice, too, letting it cool in between, before doing the soldering.