farmal H , only runs with choke out

It only runs with choke 3/4 out. ( It normaly never needs to be choked). Push choke in and it stops. I had a problem with grit, rust, dirt , in settlement bulb. cleaned that . do you think that is the problem? any suggestions?

when you cleaned out the sediment bulb, did you also unscrew the little plug on the side of the carburator float bowl and let some gas run through? Sometimes there is a little piece of grunge that gets stuck in the needle valve on the float and consequently, the float gets stuck. Try that, and then if that doesn't work, try starting the tractor with the air tube off the carb, and then put your hand over the intake of the carb until the engine nearly dies and then remove your hand. Do this a few times. This creates an enormous vaccum and will often blow small bits of junk out of your carb. Sorry to be so long winded, but I hope I was of some help to you. Good Luck! Kippster

You will need to clean it again. Your gas tank probably needs good cleaning along with the fuel
line & sediment bowl. There's a screen behind the fitting where your gas line connects to the carburetor that could be blocked with dirt & rust.
Hal

Check the mixture and check for air leaking into the manifold.

If the sediment bowl was very dirty, the tank must be very dirty too. Clean out the gas tank and fuel line. There is also a screen fuel filter inside the carburetor fuel inlet fitting, make sure it is clean too. Make sure that the carb to manifold gasket is not leaking and is in good condition and be sure that those bolts that hold the carb on are tight. Make sure the carburetor adjustment screws and the float level are correctly set. If this will not help, take off the carb and clean it and install a brand new rebuild kit, YT sells new kits.

Good luck.

Andy.

All good advice below.

If it only runs with the choke cuttin' off your intake air, you have one of two problems. Either the carb can't supply enough fuel to mix with unrestricted inlet air, or you have air leaking in after the fuel is introduced at the carb.

Can't hurt to check the carb to manifold and manifold to head connections to make sure they're tight. It's so easy and takwes so little time, I'd do it first. A mechanical check should be good, but you could follow up by spraying a little carb cleaner around those connections with the engine running. If she speeds up in response, you've got some more tightening to do or might need to replace the gaskets.

Where you've been at the fuel bowl, though, I suspect more strongly the fuel supply is at the root of your problem. Start at the top and work your way down. Get rid of any clutter and stuff in the tank that might cover the inlet to the sediment bowl. With the valve in the open position, blow out all the passages on the sediment bowl and clean the screen. Blow out the line from the bowl to the carb. Pull the inlet elbow into the carb, the one the fuel line attaches to. It should have a very fine cylindrical screen on the carb end. Flush and blow that out.

Beyond that point, you'll need to have a carb rebuild kit in hand. You'll likely need it for the bowl gasket anyway, and your problem may very well be with the float needle, which is in the kit, too. Clean things up and blow them out while you're into it, paying spceial attentino to the critical passage that the float needle closes off and check your float level.

There's other things you can do/check/replace while you have the carb apart, but those basic things ought to get you running reasonably strong.

Let us know how you make out!

Tighten the manifold. Been a rash of loose manifolds lately around these parts causing "carb "problems.

Tighten the manifold. Been a rash of loose manifolds lately around these parts causing "carb "problems.