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Suggestions for 560D coolant leak..

C

Clefus

Member
Makin hay tonite and the 560D was starting to run in the 230 - 240 range....
Shut it down...cooled it some and added a few gal of water....
Kept wanting to blow steam out the rad overflow and was eventually running up towards 230....now it has a miss and blows white smoke ...

Thinkin the head gasket may have a leak.....head was off and serviced before I bought the tractor....Ive ran it a year with no problem so far...

To get me by short of tearing the head off are there any GOOD stop leaks out there?? or any other suggestions...??

Thanks
Dave
 
I wouldn't try any type of stop leak. White smoke means your coolant is going right into a cylinder, so would stop leak. If it were mine that head would be coming off to have a look.
 
Combustion into coolant leaks are not fixed by "GOO"
Pulling the head may get there. It could have sleeve issues as well, but pulling the head is the answer to that as well. Sorry, JimN
 
More than likely you will find some stretched bolts where the gasket failed. Draw the bolt between your thumb and forefinger. If you feel any change in the diameter of the threads, the bolt is stretched.
 
Pull the head and look for a blown headgasket, if it looks ok I would have the head magna-fluxed for
cracks. Hal
 
Thanks guys
I was trying to deny that I had to pull the head but guess I will have to..

I was only thinking of a stopleak type product if there is one that really worked and didnt gum up crap...I really never was a fan of that stuff...

Puzzles me as to what they might have done before when the head was off.....looks like tommorrows project..I have more hay to do and the next best tractor is the H ....
 
Clefus,

The stop leak stuff will work just fine on a "static" application, but will never, ever stop a leak at the head because of those compression forces.

I'm just trying to prepare you. I think you have a cracked head; that was their trait and unless the head has been updated to the newer version, pretty sure that is what you are gonna find.

Sorry Pard,

Allan
 
Allan
When you mention an updated head, is that a factory service part or a later d282 head from a 706 or such ?? just thinking where to look if its cracked....what was the typical location for cracks on these heads??

I'll have to go dig the H out from the corner to run the haybine...560 is my main tractor...I havent even finished first cut in my one man band operation...next year I'll have to get a round baler....no help to be found for small squares...
 

Now that you have shut it down,the water may
have filled the cylinder,so when you go to start
again bump it over lightly so as not to bend a
connecting rod.
When you remove the head , look for low
sleeves they can work in the block and wear the
counter bores. I have one in the shop now that
had a real black trail between two sleeves and
also had a badly eroded deck. I planed the deck
and recut the counterbores . If by chance you
have the later style sleeve (called heavy press
fit) , it is supposed to be .045 above deck .
IH knew they were junk, so they said it would
still be alright if it was only .028 above deck.
When that type sleeve sinks in the block there
is no longer any fire dam protection for the
gasket. The cure for those sleeve problems is
to counterbore the block to fit the early
flange type liners and hone .001 out of the
bore.

george
 
Thanks for the help...
I am going to dig out the H ...get a hyd cupler fitted fir the haybine and get the rest cut this week..calling for nice weather fora while...

I'll tear the head off and report back for furhther suggestions......

Thanks
Dave
 
I finally got a free moment yesterday to pull the head....

Found that the gasket appeared to have an erosion trail to a water hole...

Also I found on another cylinder I had a broken exaust spring...

I am going to drop off the head tommorrow to have it magnafluxed...hate to put new gaskets on and tear it back off due to a crack..

The IT manual states to set the valves hot....how is that accomplished with all the stuff back on?? or just leave the rockers the same they were and just bolt the assebly back on...but I still have a spring to replace...

Funny this head gasket only lasted less than 100 hours ....It was done before I got the tractor...I noticed some valves werent IH..also..just replacements....
 
[color=red:f9aa7ee582]yo allan, jan george, others..no spec order...[/color:f9aa7ee582]

need additional info on valve adjustment......as in previous post

thanks

Dave
 
(quoted from post at 18:07:07 07/21/08) I finally got a free moment yesterday to pull the head....
......Funny this head gasket only lasted less than 100 hours ....It was done before I got the tractor...I noticed some valves werent IH..also..just replacements....
Click to expand...

Premature failure of the head gasket can be caused by a warped cylinder head, a warped block, improper sleeve height, or failed head bolts.

A stretched bolt can still be brought up to torque but will have lost enough strength so that it does not have the proper clamping force. When that happens they allow the head to move up when there is a power stroke in the cylinder. Any bolts that were looser than others when you took it apart need to be examined very closely for this problem.

Adjust the valves to specs given for the hot setting. That is fine for anything above room temperature.
 
THANKS owen
I was going to check sleeve standout and such..also the head was decked rather rough. The guy doing the magnafluxing was wondering about that also...thougth it was rather rough...just trying to get past whether the head has cracks and trying to eliminate future problems and get this thing back to work.....

Thanks again
Dave
 
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