IH/Farmall 656

Finally!! The past month an ahalf fas been a real trying experience. I purchased a IH 444 that was in real strait shape from a notsolocal dealer...Gave 4750 for it when he wanted 5500! Then talked with my neighbor about haying together (he has all the equipment and nothing to run it) Problem was he has a roundbaler and haybine that i felt woulda really pushed the outer limits of the 444. So I got a hold of the dealer, explained my situation and he had just the thing...A JD 4020 in great shape. I kick in another 3000 and he drops it off at my place. I get home from work and sure enough this tractor was solid and clean......1 problem. Only set up for 1000 pto and after researching, it woulda cost 800 minimum to change over to 540! So back to the dealer we go(claimed he didnt realize it was only 1000 pto and had no idea how much it was going to cost) Actually he wanted me to slap an adapter on it and keep the rpms around 1000!! Yea right! Explained that wasnt an option and we need to figure out something else. I ended up in a 656 which i am VERY happy with. Unfortunately i have 8250 in it by the time it was all said and done!! I feel like that is a bit too much but really didnt have any choice since i was stuck with him after coughing up the cash for the 2 earlier tractors and he was very clear i wasnt getting my money back( i understand on the first tractor for sure!) What do you think? Thats real high for the tractor isnt it? The serial number i have is 2450028uo48689. Is the last 5 the real ser #? and its a gasser with normal tranny...no hydro or shuttle. any feedback appreciated! Sorry for the long story...just wanted to vent! Atleast we can get after some hay now!!!

Most of the 4020s I have seen just require a different stub shaft to change from 1000 to 540 rpm.

For heavens sake go back and get the 4020 even if you have to pay the 800.

Yeah,

They are with the tractor too, aren't they?

Stored in a receptical and ya just swap the shafts one for the other?

Allan

talked to a deere "expert" and he said that since there was a factory installed knockout where the 540 stub shoulda been; that means the tractor was a factory 1000 pto only and i would have to change out the internals for the pto because nothing in there was set up for 540(A rare bird apparently)...hence the 800 bucks...which was for used parts of course and i considered it but wasnt sure what i would end up with not to mention the 800 was just a ballpark...could get more maybe. IDK I guess the 4020 normqally come setup for 540 and 1000...just have to swap the shaft, but this was a 1000 only from the factory????

$7750 Was not that bad a price for a 4020. If half decent, they bring $10 and up around here. Diesel that is.

Yep, it should be stuck in a hole on the rear end housing. Just pull a snap ring, and swap them around.

The 4020 you looked at was a rare bird. Most did switch from 540 to 1000 by switching the stub shaft. Drive the nose into a ditch to minimize fluid loss. Squeeze and remove the snap sing on the shaft with a pair of pliers. Pull the old shaft out and slide the new one in. Re install the snap ring. Switching the shafts causes the speed change internally on the tractor. If you can borrow a 540 stub shaft from somewhere it should be a 5 minute check to see if the change can be made.

I don't know what baler and MoCo you want to use, but is the 656 big enough for the job?

John

Good point on the horsepower: A 656 is only a 60-65 HP tractor, while the JD 4020 rates about 95 at the PTO.

As far as a fair price for the 656, here in western Iowa they're bringing between 6000$ to 8000$ for a clean example.

Considering anything green goes for a premium, (10000$ to 15000$ going price for a straight, clean 4020 around here), and the horsepower, maybe the suggestion that you go back to the 4020 isn't such a bad idea at that.

Brad: Are you telling us you laid out money trading a 4020 diesel for a 656 gasser? If so, you best stop at the local head examiner.

The JD was a gas. Hours were a bit high, but tractor was solid. The 656 has only 2000 hours on tach and is in very clean shape. The 60-65 hp will do all that i need. Rumor has it that its a bit more fuel efficient then the 4020.. I read in several places that the JD really slurps it down. I don"t know. I just got aggrevated at the end of it all. Sounds like maybe I shoulda kept the JD. Live and learn.

Brad: My apologies, reading the entire thread gave me the idea the Deere was diesel.

No problem Hugh. I didnt take it like that. Thank you anyhow .