Farmall M gas tank and getting her started first steps

Hey guys,

I'm new to the tractro world. I usually dink around with mowers and cars outside of PC world job. I recently purchased a 1945 M from my father in law for 300 dollars with a stan hoist trip loader. It hasn't run in several years. My first thoughts are to get the battery charged, which is happening now, and then dump some gas in the carb, test for spark and see if she pops off. The gas tank is clean. Past that once I get her going he said that after running it for about fifteen mintues the oil pressure would drop and it would start knocking. Any ideas? I was planning on dumping the oil pan once I got it running again and checking the pump and cleaning out all the old sledge. It has a newly rebuilt head on it as the previous owners ran it out of coolant and cracked the head. I also have 3 new tires on it so I still think the price was right.

I was reading in the operators manual that the Distillate version had an aux tank on it. Mine has the aux tank, and boy does it look nasty inside, but lacks the other "valves" that the distillates used. The the plain old gas engines come with an aux tank sometimes or has mine been bastardized in some way?


Thanks a ton for the help for this newbie


T.C.

I tried posting pics of the tractor but It wouldn't let me yet. When it lets me I'll get pictures up for everyone.

Needs an engine overhaul. Bearings are toast.

Allan

Hi I agree with that assessment bearings are probably toast.As for what fuel it used; if it was distillate it will have a diferent manifold. So pic of manifold will help. Incidentally the distillate version sometimes didn't have any other valves. One type of fuel filter under the main tank did it all with a single tap. So just perhaps? your aux tank is bad inside which would suggest no lubricant on the walls(gas).whilst your main tank is good so maybe it had an oil based fuel in it(Distillate/kero). Hope this is a bit of help. MTF

You probably will need to pull that engine and completely disassemble it. The crankshaft will need to be ground undersize. Your local auto machine shop can determine how much and be able to furnish undersize bearings unless it's worn too much. Hal

yup i go along with the other guys on the motor, drop the oil pan, check the main and rod bearings. re the distillate or kerosene, it was pretty common that the tractor was converted at some time in the past to burn gasoline. the distillate manifolds were prone to cracking, and the heat valve would rust shut. sooo, when it came time for a major, they usually got the firecrater pistons, and a gas manifold. if your carb has a wing nut drain, its prolly the distillate/kerosene carb.

It does not have the that style of carb on it, although it too could have been changed.

Did any of the gas engines come with the aux tank? Just curious.

Also what type of oil do you run in these. The Repro. manual states 20w under 80 degrees and 30w above 80. On something that old i'd be more inclined to run a 40 or 50 weight. Let me know what you guys think.

http://tcanthony.com/images/m1.jpg
http://tcanthony.com/images/m2.jpg

That is the link to the pictures. Still won't let me postup.
T.C.

Here 'ya go.

Sweeet! Thanks a bunch for that.

I cleaned up the points today and got spark now. The old 2002 battery will take a charge but not enough to crank the thing over enough. Luckily my friend had one from his AC that locked up last fall so i'll borrow that one for the time being. He also gave me an alternator for my 12v conversion. Tomorrow night i'm going to put the spare battery in and then clean the bowl put some gas in her and try to start it. The oil levels are all good and fresh so It should be good to go.

I did notice tonight that there is a lever right next to the oil filler cap that has a rod connected to it that leads up to the operator seat. Any Ideas what that is for? I'm thinking spark advance? If someone could let me know that would be great.

Thanks a ton for the help guys.


T.C.

if the lever is right at the oil fill, and has a rod that goes back to the operator platform down near the ignition switch, it is the shudder control for the radiator shudders. peek thru the front grill and see if there are shudders in front of the radiator. the shudders were used to control engine temp when running kerosene or distillate.

No shutters but but I bet you are right. My Father in law told me today that when he put the new head on it a few years back that he put the gas head on it so that tells me it was at some point a distilate tractor and would make sense as to what that was.

I did get the tractor running tonight. Sounds pretty good too. RE the oil pressure, it started out at 75 and the longer I ran it at full throttle the highest it got was 25 psi. If I idled it, it was 0 or just above.

I ran it at WOT for nearly 45 minutes running the loader moving some grass piles tonight and the engine never got hot. I could put my hand on it and it wouldn't burn me at all. Never registered on the gauge.

The oil in that thing needs changed for one but it runny as hell! Almost like water thin. Didn't smell like gas though so that's good.

I also think the belly pump is starting to get weak, either that or the loader is tweaked. On level ground I can't get enough down pressure to latch the bucket. I have to drop it on something to get the the bucket to latch. I suppose it could be an adjustment or something. I'm so new to tractors tho, I'm only speculating.


Thanks for the help guys.


T.C.

Other side. David........

Thanks again for posting those for me. I went out and ran it a little more and this time it ran warmer and actually registered on the gauge but still in the cold side. Pressure stayed the same, around 25.

I did find a rim and hub tonight off of craigs list for 25 dollars so i'm business now with that. I should pick it up tomorrow. Now I need a tire!!!


T.C.