- Thread starter Bob S.
- Start date
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
I guess you know alittle about computers because you have the question printed, does the M start, what is the first problem,
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
Well Bob looks like you are on board. Just ask queations. some body will have a anser.
As far as what tractor you have you need the serial number. to find that you need to look for a tag on the clutch housing. Then look on the left side bar of this page click on the serial numbers. That tag is on the left side [when setting in the seat] Bill
As far as what tractor you have you need the serial number. to find that you need to look for a tag on the clutch housing. Then look on the left side bar of this page click on the serial numbers. That tag is on the left side [when setting in the seat] Bill
Andy Motteberg
Well-known Member
I may be able to help you if you tell me what problems your M has. I know a little about computers too, but a lot more about tractors.
Andy Motteberg
Well-known Member
The serial # is also stamped on the block under the #1 spark plug hole.
Hello
Thanks for reply, Ill give you the most important issue first. The seller must have had everything set up just right, I ran it and tested it for a short time before making a deal. The only leaks I found were at hyd cylinders. When I got her home and ran it a short time oil started leaking out of the oil pan at the pan gasket location. The oil is a little milky looking but not like it has a lot of water or anti freeze in it. I drained close to 2 qt out of the upper petcock. I ran it again today for a while and after 15 min it was leaking out of the pan gasket again. Any ideas. I dont want to burn it up as it runs very good for an old tractor.
Thanks Bob
Thanks for reply, Ill give you the most important issue first. The seller must have had everything set up just right, I ran it and tested it for a short time before making a deal. The only leaks I found were at hyd cylinders. When I got her home and ran it a short time oil started leaking out of the oil pan at the pan gasket location. The oil is a little milky looking but not like it has a lot of water or anti freeze in it. I drained close to 2 qt out of the upper petcock. I ran it again today for a while and after 15 min it was leaking out of the pan gasket again. Any ideas. I dont want to burn it up as it runs very good for an old tractor.
Thanks Bob
Hey this is fun,thanks for the reply. The tractor starts and runs good. The number 2 problem is the amount of free play in the steering, it has about a half a turn of free play before actual steering happens, not too safe. It has a narrow front and no power steering. This is my first tractor, but I did turn a few wrenches back in the good old days.
Thanks.
Bob
Thanks.
Bob
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
steering on any tractor is trouble some when a lot of play, bushing bearings worm gear all worn, but can be repaired yourself its not tough job just time consumeing
HENRY E NC
Member
I have an M so maybe I can help some. As far as working on the tractor go to external_link and buy a parts manual and a service manual. The steering is not an easy fix but take the grill off, hood also . T. The steering shaft goes into a round casting. Take the top off and then turn the whel. Watch the gears (worm gear and helical gear as you turn.If the horizontal gear moves back and for (front to back)then the bushings under it are worn out. If the worm gear moves a lot before the horizontal gear the chances are both gears are waorn. If you have a full round horizontal helical cut gear it can be rotated 180 degrees. I it is a quadrant gear you will need a used one. Used parts can be ordered thru many places. Email me and I will suggest several. Henry [email protected]
HENRY E NC
Member
Also, I would immediately drain the oil, check the radiator to see if you are losing water maybe head gasket, or other problem. If the pan over flows then possibly something getting into oil. Temporarily use cheap oil to determine the problem. Be sure to change filter also . Sound as if you have a serious problem that should be addressed before you run the tractor any more. Henry. I had to replace radiator head gasket on mu 51. Henry
John M
Well-known Member
- Location
- Nunyafn business
How much did you pay for this tractor? He probabaly never mentioned the leak did he? Could ne head, head gasket, or even the block cracked.
Janicholson
Well-known Member
Another thought not mentioned so far is that if it has had a live hydraulic pump mounted (on the left side, in front of the distributor, with hoses or steel pipe going to it, the pump may be leaking into the engine oil. This needs to be fixed (with a good pump, or by having the pump seal repaired (speedy sleeve) the archives here are very important. Just put in hydraulic pump seal repair in the search for box and answers already given will be listed. Best of luck, we can help. JimN
Hello
I didnt want to know how bad I got took but what the hell, I paid $1600.00 for this thing. It has a hydraulic loader on it and doesnt look too bad, needs front tires, wiring is pretty scarry, plus the other problems mentioned. It was converted to 12 volts, typical butcher-mechanic job, hood wont close etc.
I just checked the rad and water level did not go down, has to be something else. The hyd pump is a Prince C593 and is mounted on the very rear driven off the PTO, it has a 5gal oil res. nicely wired to the pto guard. I dont see any connection from the hydraulics to the engine.
Another question, it has a MW CLUTCH, ANCHOR ILL on the left side by the clutch pedal, with a long lever on it , what the heck is that all about?
Bob
I didnt want to know how bad I got took but what the hell, I paid $1600.00 for this thing. It has a hydraulic loader on it and doesnt look too bad, needs front tires, wiring is pretty scarry, plus the other problems mentioned. It was converted to 12 volts, typical butcher-mechanic job, hood wont close etc.
I just checked the rad and water level did not go down, has to be something else. The hyd pump is a Prince C593 and is mounted on the very rear driven off the PTO, it has a 5gal oil res. nicely wired to the pto guard. I dont see any connection from the hydraulics to the engine.
Another question, it has a MW CLUTCH, ANCHOR ILL on the left side by the clutch pedal, with a long lever on it , what the heck is that all about?
Bob
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
An addition to what Henry said, The nut on top of the steering bolster shaft [horizontal--not the worm gear] could be loose. It is a tapered spline, & the splines may be worn. Try tightening the nut first. If you run out of threads, put a proper size washer [shim] under the nut to see if that takes more play out.
That is the part number of the engine block, Bob.
The engine serial number is on a smooth flat spot, and it's stamped into the block. It is not raised letters.
First thing, change the oil. Drain it all out. Don't bother with the filter this time because you'll probably be changing it again soon. Just drain and fill until it runs out the bottom petcock. Any SAE30 oil is fine, even the cheapest SAE30 is way better than these tractors had new.
If it's starting easy and running smooth, don't touch the carburetor or ignition.
John M
Well-known Member
- Location
- Nunyafn business
By the casting code you posted, your engine is at least a 1950. Theres a number on that flat spot, you just havent scrapped enough to see it, unless you have an IH replacement engine, but the part number would have been ground off and a different one stamped in its place.
John M
Well-known Member
- Location
- Nunyafn business
6722 is an M engine, so you have an M. Easiest way at this point is to check your casting codes all over the tractor as someone mention above, they could be as much as a month apart. This will just verify if the engine has been replaced at some point.
sammy the RED
Well-known Member
6722 D J is the part number.
3.29.T is the casting date code.
M-W Clutch lets you operate the loader while not useing the foot pedel clutch.
Hi Bob.
Congrats on the purchase, hopefully you can get all your issues figured out with it.
That lever with the MW CLUTCH is an aftermarket hand clutch for your tractor. It is the closest thing that an M or an H can get to having a "live" pto and hydraluics. If thats work well for you, thats a good thing to have on your tractor. There are lots of posts on this board about those, and it should come in handy for you.
When you have been running the tractor, you said that the fluid level in the radiator didnt go down at all. But all of that fluid had to come from somewhere...
Keep us posted!
Congrats on the purchase, hopefully you can get all your issues figured out with it.
That lever with the MW CLUTCH is an aftermarket hand clutch for your tractor. It is the closest thing that an M or an H can get to having a "live" pto and hydraluics. If thats work well for you, thats a good thing to have on your tractor. There are lots of posts on this board about those, and it should come in handy for you.
When you have been running the tractor, you said that the fluid level in the radiator didnt go down at all. But all of that fluid had to come from somewhere...
Keep us posted!
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