A clutch

I believe that the thowout bearing is not throwing out. Need to grind the tractor into gear. Sometimes after running it for a while it will work OK, What is the answer? Need to lubricatte the bearing???? Nuff said Henry

Check and adjust the free-play on your pedal first. If the bearing is bad, it will be noisy when it engages. Generally harmless in the immediate term, but it wears harder on the clutch fingers.

Also, there's nothing real unusual about what I call the "Farmall Grind." On unsynchronzied trannies like yours, it is considered normal to have to hold the clutch pedal down for a second or two (or three) to give the shaft time to quit spinning and be able to get it into gear without making any noise. And that'sjust to strt from a stop. If you're gettin' ideas bout bein' ble to shift on the fly from one gear to another with no grinding you're gin' to ne to grow one more arm. This arm should be on your left side so that you can operate the shifter while adjusting the throttle in the appropriate direction for the shift up for downshifts, down for shifting up, and you can still expect some grinding and kerchunking until you get good at it. Having two arms on the left will leave your right arm free to pay attention to the direction of travel and adjust as necessary.

Hi Henry, If clutch adjustment doesn't fix the problem then if the A is like the SC the problem could be the pilot bearing in the flywheel. On a SC this is only a bronze bushing and after time the clutch crud and dried up grease will keep the transmission shaft spinning with the clutch depressed. Unfortunately on the SC there was no method to lube this bushing from the inspection plate. Only solution was to split and replace.

Looked at parts on caseih.com and C-123 and this is the part: 364527R2 BUSHING BUSHING, clutch pilot, optional with 399135R91.

JimB

Good directions!! JimN

I was more than a bit tongue-in-cheek in my first reply, and I'm a lousy typist, but I'd still say check your free-play first. That controls the clearance between the face of the throwout bearing and the fingers that release the clutch. That distance can be observed if you look in through the round hole on the left side of the torque tube, on the bell right behind the implement-mounting pad, and should be about 3/16". Don't try to measure it in there, though -- eyeball is fine. To get that adjustment right, you want to have an inch or 1-1/4" freeplay at the pedal. Lay a piece of tape on the side of your battery box even with the lip on the left side of the pedal when at rest. Then pull the pedal down by hand (there should be some tension from the pedal return spring) until you feel the bearing come against the clutch fingers, when the tension will increase when you run into the springs on the clutch fingers. Measure how far the pedal has gone from the tape -- that should be the 1 or 1-1/4". If you don't have a battery box, you can measure how far the arm on the pedal has traveled from the platform but the geometry of it gets thrown off, and should be more like 3/4" to 1" at that point. Better to rig something alongside the face of the pedal you can measure from.

If it does require adjustment, follow across the pedal shaft until you see hole, usually oval, on the very bottom of the torque tube, just in front of the transmission. There's a rod with threads on the end passing through something that looks like a cross beteen a fork and a clevis, with two nuts. If you have too much freeplay, loosen the rear nut and use the threads of the front nut (as if you were tightening it toward the rear of the tractor) to push the rod forward until free-play is correct. Pull the other nut up to just snug before testing the adjustment. If you do have a problem and it's related to freeplay, that would be the direction to turn. When everything is adjusted, tighten both nuts down.

The throwout bearing is either a graphite block or if IIRC a sealed roller bearingneither of which can be lubed. The zerk you will see when you look into that hole on the side is just to grease the points where the bearing mounts into the fork.

With your free-play adjusted you can do a little test. If you have the shield on your PTO, you'll need a helper (otherwise, you can watch the PTO shaft from the seat). Run your tractor with the PTO engaged. Have your helper press down the clutch pedal and see how long it takes for your PTO to stop spinning. If it's just a matter of a few seconds, like I described earlier, everything is normal. When the PTO shaft is stopped, so is the input shaft, and you can shift silently, though you might have to bump the clutch once more if everything happened to to stop with the two gears at a point that they won't mesh. And at that point you'll be getting impatient and forget to wait, and get a little grind. We all do that.

If it doesn't quite stop but tends to creep a little bit, getting to JimB2's very good point, you might suspect that the pilot bushing is a little worn, but not enough to be serious.

The point that JimB2 raised about the pilot bushing is worth noting, though. What I said before about non-synched transmission needing to spin to a stop for quiet shifting is still true. But a sticky or chopped up pilot bushing could also make a problem, as the friction from the gum or the burrs on the shaft or bushing could cause enough friction to keep the shaft turning even with the clutch disengaged.

If your test has the PTO just sort of creeping along, no more than a good bit of tacky old oil and dust could cause that, and it probably wouldn't be worth splitting the tractor to have it fixed, unless you have some other work to do while its apart. You can live with it for a long time and not hurt anything with the minor crunching of gears that would result.

I had this going on my SuperC when I first got it. All it took was to run the sickle mower mounted to it for a bit. The friction of the knife on the mower feeding back through to the shaft when I clutched her was enough to stop the shaft turning, and the fit of the shaft into the bushing, which was only stiff and either gummed up or corroded from years of sitting, polished right back up by the bushing (which is pressed inot you flywheel and is always turning when the motor is running) turning around the stopped shaft. When I did eventually split the tractor to rebuild the motor, the bushing and shaft measured up well within tolerance, and I put them back together just like they were.

If in your test (POST free-play adjustment!) the PTO shaft keeps whirling merrily around, however, with the clutch disengaged, and without slowing down, then the bushing may be damaged and need replacing.

Let us know.

Sorry to be so long-winded. Hope I've helped.

Great instructions scotty. Will try them tomorrow. The throwout bearing and all the other pieces in there were put in last year. This just staerted. Ill followup Thannks Henry