exhaust manifold and battery box

hank woll

Member
hello-i'm replacing the exhaust manifold on my H and want to know if any gasket cement is needed and what is the torque for the bolts-also do the replacement battery boxes attach the cover with wing nuts?-i got 2 circular studs with threaded ends and nuts but no wing nuts-the best pic in my manual seems to show wing nuts-is that cover needed?-i worry it might get hit by the battery if i hit a good bump and short out-any ideas?-thanks-hank
 
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The use of a piece of EDPM roof membrane (rubber foofing material 60 mills thick, or more) glued to the cover will eliminate all chance contact. I also like to wedge a filler of like material beside the battery to limit or restrict movement. I do not know off hand the torque, but I would use only #2 permatex (nonhardening) in a thin film on both sides of the intake part of the gasket. JimN
 
Hank - My replacement battery box came with regular hex nuts on the hold-down eyebolts. I replaced them with a pair standard ¼-20 wing nuts from the bin at Home Depot – about 25 cents apiece as I recall. (The parts catalog shows wing nuts BTW…)

To prevent shorting the battery posts to the box cover I glued a scrap of ¼” thick closed cell neoprene foam material to the underside of the cover. Now when the cover is drawn down by the eyebolts the neoprene contacts the posts/cable clamps and holds the battery securely in place.

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For the manifold gasket I’ve always installed them dry….never had a problem with leaks. However Permatex #2 like JimN suggests, or red RTV silicone on the intake won’t hurt. I don’t recall the torque spec for the manifold stud nuts but it isn’t much – like 20 ft-lb? Draw the nuts up evenly in 2 or 3 steps, then torque again after the engine has fully warmed up.
 

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