Question for Jim N.

Dr. Bert

Member
Jim: A friend gave me a new 6 volt cutout-no box, so I don't know the manufacturer. Am I correct in assuming the cutouts do not need to be mated to the generators like voltage regulators? This is for my M. Thanks.
 
Dr Bert - Your assumption is correct! Any 6 volt cutout should work with any 6 volt tractor generator.

Incidentally the new "universal" (solid state) aftermarket cutouts work on both 6 and 12 volt systems...
 
Why wouldn't a 50 Amp stud-mount rectifier work in place of the cut-out??? I fixed up a 100- Amp rectifier for my brother's TD18-A dozer--which uses a "B" generator system. Been following this cut-out thread, & it seems it would be simpler to use a rectifier. Mounting shouldn't be too hard to accomplish.
 
cutouts do work with only one issue. That is you will not have regulation to your battery.

Why not use a VR for the A tupe setup and be done.

If it has a four position charge/light switch, that has a good resistor for low charge, do that, no issue. JimN
 
Thanks to all for responding!! Jim N. -- The resistor on the 4 way chg/light switch was broken. I've been told that the ribbon type resistor used in that application is no longer available. Would wiring in a 2-4 ohm aftermarket resistor work? Then add the VR.
 
A real voltage reg must not be used with the "light" switch. Only the VR.
When using the Switch, the resistor for the Low charge position should be a 3.5 Ohm with a watt dissipation capacity of 30 to 50. It will likely be a wire wound ceramic tube thing. If it is too light in the dissipation area, it will burn up. A carbon resistor will not do, it is not electronics, it is electrical current.
If you go with a regulator, the Light switch is not involved at all. The wire to it is not used. the wire from the F terminal on the Gen goes to the VR Field Terminal only, no other wire attached to those. Then one from the Bat to the load side of Amp gauge, and (if it has one) a similar wire from the L terminal to the Light switch supply. JimN
 

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