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M ignition and carburetor problems

D

Dr. Bert

Member
Installed a new 6 volt positive grd. VR this morning. When I start the tractor it will charge at a rate of 6 amps at moderate RPMs and almost 10 amps at high RPMs. However, when I shut the engine off (magneto ignition) the points on the cut-out portion of the VR will not open. Tried a different VR--same thing. Rechecked all the wiring, reread the VR installation instructions. Wire from the Batt. terminal on the VR runs to the hot side of the starter. What have I done wrong?
Secondly, I have removed and boiled out the carburetor twice, checked the float level twice, replaced the needle and seat,but the engine still isn"t running right. Adjusted the power valve as per instructions, then the idle adjustment. Engine runs decently, but not smoothly. Smooths right out if I pull the choke out about half way. Obviously starved for gas, but I can"t figure out why. Removed the screen from the carb. gas inlet. Sediment bowl and fuel line cleaned. What else would you suggest? Thank you.
 
Bert: As far as your ignition problem - I don't know. But, as far as the carburetor - if that carb is totally clean (every tiny passage) and the float level is "dead on" and working, then you have an air leak somewhere. HALF CHOKE = LEAN. It is either where the carb bolts to the manifold, or where the manifold bolts to the head. Crank the M and take it up to mid throttle. While it is running 'rough', spray some WD-40 around the manifold-to-head runners at the head. If it smooths out, you've got an air leak there and you will need to remove the intake and have it planed off smooth at an automotive machine shop, then re-attach it with a new manifold gasket. Or, you may have a cracked manifold. If so, replace. Torque to 70 lbs.
Do you have a gasket between the carb flange and the bottom of the manifold? A good gasket? That is where I would check next for an air leak.
After that, check valve lash. It should be .017" @ hot.
Good luck, bud.
mike
 
It is wired wrong, but there may be other issues as well. The wire from theBat terminal on the VR should go to the Amp gauge. It should attach to the side away from the terminal attached to the starter sw. I do not see how your gauge can read at all with the Bat term hooked to the starter (negative).
It would charge, but not show on the gauge.
while running (rewired to go through the meter)
remove the F wire from the gen, then shut it off. if it still does it i'll be impressed.
I think you have a regulator for a "B" type generator. They might feed current through the field (incorrectly) and cause the issue. JimN
 
The batt wire on the VR should go to the ampmeter, then to the battery. That way it would show discharge when you shut it off and the cutout points stay closed. Make sure the regulator is grounded good.
 
Gentlemen: Did not fully explain my wiring scheme. The wire from the Batt terminal of the VR runs to the discharge side of the ammeter, then another wire from the charge side of the ammeter to the hot side of the starter switch. Is this wrong? Points of the cut-out relay would not open either when it was mounted.
Jim N-- VR was left over from a Ford 8N restoration. Would it be an A or B type VR.
 
Have you opened the the main jet adjusting screw enough? This will enrich your fuel mixture. Hal
 
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