Shimming Farmall M main beraings

Greetings gentlemen of the red. Some of you may recall that last Autumn I was trying to lay to rest a problem obtaining040" main bearing shells for my M spare engine. (Never found them yet) I was considering shimming 030" and asked your advice. So! to cut a long story short we gave this a try:-experiment using an old set of bearings. The no1 and no3 went well and we achieved a measurably satisfactory fit. However as expected we had serious trouble with the middle bearing obviously caused by the thrust flanges. It was not posible to press these in to obtain a sound fit. Either the flange bent outward or the babbit surface buckled. After one flew out of its seating into the roof I decided--FINISH.
In conclusion I would not hesitate to use this method in an engine with all 'straight' bearings (or for the same problem on conrod bearings). Now once again thanks for all your help and advice and to all the guys who told me so--Yes you did.
Now another problem I need a radiator shutter for an M either a good one or one to use as a pattern and I would be very much obliged if anyone out there can help. Here in UK they are rarer than honest polticians. Please continue to enjoy your problems. MTF

Ever thought of having the crank ground way under spec, and then have it welded back up to stock STD specs?? Crankshops do this all the time if they have a crank welder. A shop quoted me $100 a journal. Chad

Thanks but yes I guess that at the time on this forum we considered just about everything imaginable MTF

Use a rasor saw (jewelers saw) to cut 10 radial notches in the web of the bearing to allow it to bend around the new radius. The tabs would have little dynamic force on them!
A welded up crank is also a good solution. JimN

mike, i am the fellow with the used .040 mains. i'm sorry that i dropped the ball and never got a postage quote. if you are still interested let me know.

Chroming the crankshaft is another option. Probably the most expensive option out there, but... The soft babbit material of most tractor bearings make this possible. The shaft and bearings will last for the rest of your lifetime, assuming you change the oil and filter regularly.
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You can chrome cylinder liners, too. Just use soft cast-iron rings, not chrome-moly. With a chrome liner, the setup will likely last the rest of your lifetime, assuming you change the oil, filter regularly, and keep the air filter clean. Worst case, after a very long time, you slap another set of soft cast-iron rings on the pistons and run for another forever.
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Aircraft people do these kinds of things all the time. The high-compression, turbo-chargers, super-chargers and high power-output of an aircraft engine, combined with the scarcity of some vintage aircraft parts, all combine to make the chrome a good investment to prevent wear. In a tractor...the wear will remain minimal virtually forever.
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Google "hard chrome" and crankshaft.

Why don't you have your old bearing shells babbitted. The man in Missouri does a nice job. Any size you want.Earl

Roberts Bearing Service in Ripley, WV can probably put babbitt on your old rods and caps you would need all the journal sizes. You may be able just add enough to take up the difference.
I had an old Standardtwin garden tractor rods rebabbitted by Federal Mogul back in the 70's. Hal
Robert's number 304-372-4136