Need help with McCormick-Deering 10-20 carburetor

I took the 3 carburetors that I had to piece together to get one good one. One base has a single key that fits into the governor (i think it says D3 on the bottom) and the other has a double key (I think it is a B7) that fits into the governor. I might have the numbers reversed.

Anyway, the B7 governor is busted up but the base is great. The D3 governor is good but the base of the carb has a broken idle adjustment school.

It looks like a major task to take the pins that hold the governor part together apart.

What are compatible carburetors for a 10-20 that can be purchased to replace a carb??

I have one 10-20 completely restored and we are starting on the steel wheel 10-20 so I'm rounding up the last of the parts that I need.

Thanks again for all of the help!

Dave

Type R carburators? For some reason the numbers you have aren't striking me, but I can't say I've ever paid attention to the cast numbers on them.

I've never taken the key off the butterfly shaft in the carb, but somehow don't think it'd be too uncooperative; else, the shaft from the governor linkage isn't too hard to take out of its housing [two screws on the cover plate, a couple cotter pins and a pin through the governor linkage and it should slide right out the carb side], so you could go the opposite route and replace that.

Also, I was talking to the Fordson House regarding their brass floats [less travel and higher level than possible with cork, though I got close cutting & bending the lever arm then soldering it upside down from the usual direction], just a week or so ago [like magnetos, in my younger days I got lucky too many times re-using old cork floats, so never had to set a brass one in type R or RW]: it sounds like it's not uncommon for them to rebuild these carbs - so I'd bet they'd have a base or some combination of parts that would work for you.

Dave, is it the idle mixture screw or the butterfly stop screw broken?
The base you have that don,t work with the butterfly my be from a Regular I do know the flange is a little different. I would try to fix the screw even if you have to drill part of it out. oldiron29

The idle mixture screw is broken.

They are the type R. The governor pin looks more like a solid pin that is rusted in the hole. A carb rebuilder tried to get it out but broke the end of the governor shaft.

I was going to try to pull the butterfly shaft out and do it that way. I think it may be easier to pull the butterfly out than to try and get the pin out of the governor.

While I try the above, are there any other carbs from other tractor that would fit??

Oldiron29 about covered the mix/match I'd know of. The Regular, and I believe even pre-1929 15-30 would have the same butterfly and governor shaft mounting.

However, the 15-30 nearly for certain [2 carburator bolts for the waterbowl variant of the R, the RW], and probably different variations among 10-20 manifolds, same with the Regular, may not mount to your particualr manifold [likely 3bolt in the carb?].

If the cover was off the linkage and it sat outside you may have a rusty mess needing some soaking, else it really isn't that bad to take the linkage end off and pull the whole shaft out the carb side of the throttle tube [I know I use terms too interchangablely, the tube going from that to the governor is more of a "tube", while the one going to the carb better says "casting" to me].

A machinist should be able to get that idle screw drilled, and either removed with an extractor or retapped (though peeling the screw's threads away from the brass base is a likely a real bugger if the extractor doesn't take it), however, machine rates probably make a "new used" base cheaper unless you have a mill yourself.

The things [various components and complete carbs] do seem to pop up on ebay sporatically enough; else, I'd be rather surprised if Alderson or Fordson House [both can recieve a picture on email too, if you need to clarify the throttle mount] doesn't have a part reasonably priced, perhaps Rice Equipment even has an NOS base for that matter.