Just recalled before I log off, I'm not positive if I posted the conclusions on some threads and posts I had earlier this year regarding assembly of that 22-36.
Sleeve Orings: Vegetable oil; I had it handy, and I think some IH shops use it so it seemed appropriate. No leaks.
Assembly lube: Permetex UltraSlick; I wanted something a bit thinner than grease; very easy to apply - not quite sticky enough to act as a third hand [I didn't expect it to be], but certainly enough to stay put until starting. Haven't thrown any bearings - or I don't think so.
Break in oil: Just plain old Rotella 15-40; I believe it has some really good stuff waiting for it this fall, but I didn't want oil so slick the rings didn't seat.
WristPins; a couple pitted NOS and a couple pitted original, I took the best 4 of the 8 and cleaned them up with crocus cloth; they mic'd pretty tight, no worries.
Crank: .003 out of round I might have lost a bit of sleep, but not gone nuts; however, new used rods were narrow enough in width (shims can't adjust that!)they wouldn't turn - two ovals of the same size just don't allow motion! Was going to have .003 removed for $100, last minute decided to take it all even anyway: .005" and $200 or so; shop said it was about the hardest material they'd seen! Perfectly round, rods sure plasti-gaged easy. Running 2 to 3.5 thousandths; the loosest one I might remove a shim after it wears in so they're all 2-3, but only because it's just enough to feel different when you grab it from the handhole.
Didn't disassemble the oil pump - it felt about right turning it, it could go out it the next time it's started or 100 years from now, but it pegs the oil gage to the right running and left when off.
Kept the mesh oil filter; I still have no idea what after market it was, or how good of a job it does, but seemed to belong with the tractor. I did have to open the new paper one [I better vac-pack that before I forget] anyway to rob the o-ring!
Didn't turn the pressure plate or flywheel, just sanded down the rust & high spots around dings and put new facings on: feathered it driving about an inch, feathered it with the belt pully too; feels great! Original throwout, but new grease tube [litterally was broke].
Pilot bearing: sealed, I did put the wick back in so I didn't have to silicone the hole and because it seemd like "it belonged" there.
Water in it right now: but will get green antifreeze after it's been out and bounced around a bit; it had a small drip from the overflow when we firstfilled it, but I couldn't find a leak.
Tags, I spoke with Dr. Robert Diener, and he is interesting in making 15-30s. I want one of his on mine, but for this one right now, we'll likely trade the 22-36 marked one for a 15-30 marked one and stamp in the HP ratings.
Now if I can get that carb and mag to cooperate.... :?
Anything I missed?
Sleeve Orings: Vegetable oil; I had it handy, and I think some IH shops use it so it seemed appropriate. No leaks.
Assembly lube: Permetex UltraSlick; I wanted something a bit thinner than grease; very easy to apply - not quite sticky enough to act as a third hand [I didn't expect it to be], but certainly enough to stay put until starting. Haven't thrown any bearings - or I don't think so.
Break in oil: Just plain old Rotella 15-40; I believe it has some really good stuff waiting for it this fall, but I didn't want oil so slick the rings didn't seat.
WristPins; a couple pitted NOS and a couple pitted original, I took the best 4 of the 8 and cleaned them up with crocus cloth; they mic'd pretty tight, no worries.
Crank: .003 out of round I might have lost a bit of sleep, but not gone nuts; however, new used rods were narrow enough in width (shims can't adjust that!)they wouldn't turn - two ovals of the same size just don't allow motion! Was going to have .003 removed for $100, last minute decided to take it all even anyway: .005" and $200 or so; shop said it was about the hardest material they'd seen! Perfectly round, rods sure plasti-gaged easy. Running 2 to 3.5 thousandths; the loosest one I might remove a shim after it wears in so they're all 2-3, but only because it's just enough to feel different when you grab it from the handhole.
Didn't disassemble the oil pump - it felt about right turning it, it could go out it the next time it's started or 100 years from now, but it pegs the oil gage to the right running and left when off.
Kept the mesh oil filter; I still have no idea what after market it was, or how good of a job it does, but seemed to belong with the tractor. I did have to open the new paper one [I better vac-pack that before I forget] anyway to rob the o-ring!
Didn't turn the pressure plate or flywheel, just sanded down the rust & high spots around dings and put new facings on: feathered it driving about an inch, feathered it with the belt pully too; feels great! Original throwout, but new grease tube [litterally was broke].
Pilot bearing: sealed, I did put the wick back in so I didn't have to silicone the hole and because it seemd like "it belonged" there.
Water in it right now: but will get green antifreeze after it's been out and bounced around a bit; it had a small drip from the overflow when we firstfilled it, but I couldn't find a leak.
Tags, I spoke with Dr. Robert Diener, and he is interesting in making 15-30s. I want one of his on mine, but for this one right now, we'll likely trade the 22-36 marked one for a 15-30 marked one and stamp in the HP ratings.
Now if I can get that carb and mag to cooperate.... :?
Anything I missed?