Super H wont start, electral prob.

I have a super h 12 v conversion. I had it on a trick charger (2amp) and went to start it. It was dark out so i turned on the lights and they all came on nice and bright. Next I turned on the gas and gave her some choke and hit the starter she started right up. The amp meter whent from discharge to a nice charge. It was cold out so I thought i would feed the dogs and let her warm up a bit. I came back 5 mins later and it was not running. So i went to restart and all it does it turn over fast and doest even try to start. It is getting gas as i did a flow check at bottom of carb, good flow for 2 mins. so i asume its not getting spark. When i turn the key on the amp meter shows a discharg of 10 amp. but when i went to turn the lights on they wont light up. I checked the fuse and it looks good. But why does it show a discharge still when i turn the switch on is it the voltage reg drawing the juice? as on my other H the gauge will only show a discharge if the points are closed. Also i dont think the ignition switch is ran thru the fuse. Its just weird that my lights don't work and it wont start and both happend the same time. I'm wondering if it got a bad surge of energy and burnt out the sealed beam lights and the dioad meant to keep it from running after you turn the switch off. Sorry so long. Any ideas what to check first? I can always run a hot wire right to the coil to see if she starts.
 
If it was me and I didn't have a volt meter or test light I'd try pulling a plug/lead and see if it'll light up your world! Otherwise, if I wanted to take wild stabs in the dark I'd try a jumper wire to the coil. Sam
 
My first impression is a bad connection in the circuit supplying the ignition switch and possibly the connection at the load side of the amp mmeter. The amp meter showing discharge might be from a short that caused the problem, or it could mean there is a bad wire going to the coil. I would remove the wire from the coil (ign sw side)and see if it has the same draw. if not it could be a shorted coil. This would burn up the points,, and cause other issues with wiring. If the 10 amp load is not there, I would not hook up a hot wire until I found the short to ground or bad coil. Let us know what happens. JimN
 
Also i shoud add that when it was working normally every time i would turn the ignition switch on the amp meter would always show a 10 amp discharge. It might not actually be 10 amps as it is a 12v conversion. Even if i take the fuse out and turn the ignition switch on it still shows that 10 amp draw. I will Try a jumper wire and see if she will throw a good blue spark. It does turn over real good so the battery has plenty of juice. All the other tractors i worked on had the 6 volt gene or a mag. thanks john
 
10 Amps is more than 2 times the expected amount. A ballast resistor might be needed if the tractor still has a 6v coil, or a 12v coil for use with a ballast resistor. Check the points befor trying it. JimN
 
You need to see if battery voltage is getting to the coil. With the points open you should have
battery voltage on both small terminals on the coil. Use a volt meter or test lite. If there's no voltage you need to check the ignition switch to see if there's voltage on the terminal
that feeds the coil. Check the feed wire to the switch to see if its getting voltage to the switch. If there's no voltage being fed to the switch you need to check that wire to see if its broken or if its a bad connection. Hal
 

All of the above is good advice. Another possibility is points never opening inside distributor (adjusting screw came loose, perhaps) or a short to ground (failed condenser, or condenser wire shorting to case). I would first to do the spark test, and expect a fail. Then I'd use light or VOM to check coil wire at coil and key switch (with points open). If you do the hot wire jump to coil, be sure to pull the existing one as we suspect a short to ground. If that fails, and voltage is good to the coil, , then I'd test voltage along the way from from coil to moving point. Also make sure voltage disappears when points are closed. That done, you begin to suspect the coil itself.
 

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