Well I thought I got it fixed

old · Apr 2, 2009

Spent most of the day working on an M. Got it rewired and switched to 12 volts, put radiator on and filled it up only to have it leak. So now I have to figure out how to stop the leaks, new radiator costs way to much so it is either fix this one or part the old M out. Oh well seems like on some you take 2 steps forward and one step back on these old tractors. Sure wish a radiator from and H would fit but my book says no
Hobby farm

Janicholson · Apr 2, 2009

How did you get the studs out.
Is the leak in a seam, or at a tube. Seams are not too tough, tubes are often so tender they cant be messed with. Jim

tractorsam · Apr 2, 2009

Not sure where you'd find some but you could try some Iron-tite. I have an MF-35 diesel that the rad was leaking on even after I soldered up the worst leaks. A bottle of iron tite (I'd tried barrs leak with no luck) and good run or two and I've not seen a leak since and that tractor hauled my firewood out and plowed the driveway this winter. Sam

Duner Wi · Apr 2, 2009

I don't recommend this but I have done it and it works . I clear a path to the down tubes that leak and pack it full of body putty (green stuff short strand fiberglass). Fill it from both sides.
Hate to do it but sometimes your options are limited.

JMOR · Apr 2, 2009

I've silver soldered one that hat a waterpump shaft break and fan into radiator & made it work. Had to cut and seal off a few tubes & repeat solder, test, solder, test several times till I got down to no leaks (without pressure). Then with pressure, I had 2 or 3 spots the were just barely misting and JB WELD CO.'s Permo-Seal did the rest. I'm a real believer it this stuff...looks like ground red pepper,but it has held for over 10 years now. It fixed heater core in my PU too.

old · Apr 2, 2009

Leaks in the tubes, and this one is so fragile that when I tried to pinch one of them off to slow the leak it broke the tube. I didn't get the studs out yet. Figured maybe if I could get it up and running the heat might help work them loose plus there is just enough of the studs left that it sits down ok and seem to stay in place well

rustyfarmall · Apr 2, 2009

If it's that fragile, I'd say there isn't much hope for it. Hate to see an otherwise good M get parted out just for lack a good radiator. Surely somebody has a used one that could be repaired?

Anonymous-0 · Apr 2, 2009

You might become sorely tempted to take that H radiator and stick it on there anyway. Maybe set a 1X4 in there and the radiator on that. Of course the correct police would be rearin' up.
But you could use it until you figgured out what to do.

old · Apr 2, 2009

I plan to try a few things to see if I can stop it from leaking. Leaning towards maybe filling the tubes that I know are bad as full of silicone and see if that works. Figure its a gamble but if it holds I can put it to work and maybe down the road find a better radiator for it. I have even thought about rigging an H radiator to fit at least till I find a correct one for it
Hobby farm

Steven f/AZ · Apr 2, 2009

I think the H radiator lower outlet is on the opposite side of the M's...

There HAS to be plenty of decent M radiators out there. Have you checked with a salvage yard? I've had good luck with jptractorsalvage.com

rustyfarmall · Apr 2, 2009

If you get real desperate, you could rig just about anything on that M to get you by. 'Course the grill and hood won't fit, but if it'll make the tractor a worker, you can do it right later on.

LMack · Apr 2, 2009

Has it been to a radiator shop? Those guys can do some rather amazing things to patch old radiators.

old · Apr 2, 2009

That to is a problem. Nearest radiator shop to me is over 100 miles away so that is not an option. Sure wish the old guy that had a shop in town years ago was still alive. He was both cheap and good but he died many years ago and since then there have been a few shops local but none last very long

M Miller · Apr 2, 2009

If you have a small propane torch you can fix it yourself, oxy acetylene work also but you have to have a light touch. You will need to get some 50/50 flux core solder & pick up some Laco Flux, this stuff works the best. Take an ice pick and clear, push easy, the cooling fins down to the leaking tube. If its a crack clear fins 1/2" past on both ends. Warm tube with torch & rub flux on. If you can get a small, fine wire brush on the tube that works the best but if not just keep heating & rubing with the flux until clean. Then hold your solder on the tube & heat with torch until solder flows & keep going until you have all of the leaks fixed. If the tubes are too bad come about 1 1/2" down from top tank & up from bottom tank. Clear the cooling fins away punch a hole in the tube with the pick heat with & clean with flux & solder shut. On some old & damaged radiators I have plugged as much a 15% of the tubes with out any problem. This is on Agg & Industrial equipment not Autos.Good Luck

jdiesel · Apr 2, 2009

i don't know what prices you have got, but i can get you an import for $330 or good one for $650. the import is good, but the fin count is alot more, if you are not going to be mowing with it, it should be fine.

old · Apr 2, 2009

See thats the problem. I have less then $300 in the tractor and I do not have the funds to pay $300 plus for a radiator at this time so it has to be fix this or sell it for parts.

old · Apr 2, 2009

Been thinking about trying to solder it up but not sure yet. Been a few years since I have done one but have in the past. I have the Ox/acl torch but I need to see if I can find my small tip

caterpillar guy · Apr 2, 2009

Just pour a can of black pepper in and go run it watch the water level as it runs so it don"t burn her self up. If the holes are only cracks or if you can pinch them shut this will work and not leak. Of coarse it will smell like pepper forever but who cares.

Well I thought I got it fixed

old

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Janicholson

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tractorsam

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Duner Wi

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JMOR

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old

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rustyfarmall

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old

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Steven f/AZ

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