charging post #3

first of all thanks for all the help. I am just frustrated so if I sounded craby I am sorry.

Ok went out and just started the 100 tonight before I had to quite because of rain.
I did notice that if I watch the amp gage and listen to the engine I could hear its tone change and I could see the amp gage move from 0 to about 1-2 amps for a few seconds then drop to 0. then it would reapeat no apparent pattern though. This was at 3/4 throtal. I then idled it down that the amp gage went to -5 to -7 amps. I then ran wide open and it was up to 0 and it would go above every so often.
so with that said I am thinking if the vr was really junk the amp gage would be below 0 amps all the time?
DO you think it just needs adjusting seems like at full throtal it would be 5-8 amps easy? and at idle possible 0 amps?
I will try to clean all the wire terminals and double check that. let me know what you think
Thanks.
Chad
 
Both bad, and intermittent voltage regulators can have those symptoms. If adjusting (see above post) fails to make it operate well replace it. Mechanical voltage regulators are both finicky and marginal in controlling output. They work, but they have been replaced by alternators, and electronic regulators which are so reliable we use idiot lights to monitor them. JimN
 
Chad,

Not to sound intentionally harsh, but you need to stop randomly fiddling with this, get John T's troubleshooting guide on paper, and go at this systematically.

If the charging system is working properly, it should always show some positive charge, even at idle. Right now it is barely producing enough electricity to run the ignition system at high RPMs.

The test that you need to do is step 5A in the link that John provided in his first reply to you: Run a wire from the F post on the generator to the tractor's frame (aka ground the field).

If the ammeter jumps to full charge while this is hooked up, you have a bad VR, and/or a bad ground to the VR.

Take the VR off its mount, and shine up the contact patch underneath. Put it back on. If it works, declare victory. If not, replace the VR.
 
Chad - You should be able to isolate the problem by doing this:

1 – Provide a temporary ground wire from the regulator relay base plate (NOT the regulator mounting bracket) and the grounded battery terminal. Now run the engine at full RPM. If the ammeter shows a steady 15 amps or so immediately after startup your problem is a bad ground to the regulator.

2 – If the VR ground is good but the ammeter still shows no charge is erratic, jumper the generator F terminal to a good ground. Again run the engine at full RPM. If you see a STEADY 15 – 20 amp charge on the ammeter, the generator is fine but the VR is no good.

3 - If after doing #2 the charge rate is still low or 0, or the ammeter hand is flicking around erratically, leave the F terminal grounded and with the engine running at full RPM, temporarily jumper the BAT and ARM terminal at the regulator (use at least a jumper #10 wire and expect a spark…). If you now get a steady 15 – 20 amp charge it’s time for a new VR. However the ammeter still shows low or no charge, or if the hand is moving all over the problem’s the generator. (Important! Do not leave the BAT and ARM terminals jumpered with the engine idling or shut down!)

----

VR's CAN be adjusted. However it’s a fussy procedure and requires special tools and instruments to accomplish. And if you get it wrong you can easily destroy your battery. You’ll be money ahead to buy a good (American made) VR rather than trying to adjust your old one.
 
Chad, Seems like I already provided you this info a time or two but here it is one more time,,,its taken from my Troubleshooting Procedure Para 5, see below:::


5. a) VOLTAGE REGULATOR SYSTEM: With the tractor running, temporarily ground the Gens Field post to case. If she charges then but NOT otherwise, the VR may be bad, or a wires missing from VR"s Field post to the Field terminal on the VR, or the VR isn’t well grounded.

Now to your specific questions:

QUESTION I then ran wide open and it was up to 0 and it would go above every so often.
so with that said I am thinking if the vr was really junk the amp gage would be below 0 amps all the time?

NOT SO: Its a matter of HOW BAD OR HOW MUCH OUT OF ADJUSTMENT... Yes it may well be bad or else it needs adjusted, try Jims adjustments or else go to Jim at Agri Services in New York www.wiringharnesses.com and get a new VR


QUESTION: DO you think it just needs adjusting seems like at full throtal it would be 5-8 amps easy? and at idle possible 0 amps?

NO I think its bad butttttttt try Jims adjustment first n if that dont fix it see above

NOTE: The help we all work so hard to provide requires the posteR have some basic mechanical skills and experience buttttttttttttt if thats not the case take it to a professional rebuilder to get it fixed.. ITS IMPOSIBLE TO PUT IN A PARAGRAPH HERE WHAT IT TAKES ENTIRE BOOKS TO EXPLAIN AND/OR EXPERIENCE

God Bless n good wishes let us all know what happens

John T
 

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