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Farmall H staying running when cold

S

slk

Member
I have an H that is very hard to make it stay running when you first crank it up. I have to constantly pull the choke in and out for about 15 min before it will stay running. After that it is ok. I did run a compression test. Starting from the front of the engine the first cylinder is 70 psi.# 2 is 90, # 3 is 60, and # 4 is 90. Could this be my problem??

Thanks
Steve
 
With low compression you probably have poor manifold vacuum. Hold your hand over the throat of the carburetor while someone makes an attempt to start the tractor. If there's poor suction on your hand you may have a leak around the intake manifold or at the base of the carburetor.

The engine may be due for a rebuild. When you get it running take it out and work it hard like plowing or disking. Then see if there's any improvement in starting. Hal
 
So if this is my problem how involved is it to put new rings in the tractor. Will I need new sleves or can i just put new rings in and call it good?
 
The tractor starts fine. After it is running for about 15 min it will stay running just fine
 
El Toro has a good point, I would do a bit of experimentation first.
Step one, Check manifold tightness and leaks with propane (see Search For box to access archives). The manifold can also have an internal leak from exhaust to intake!
If it is all tight and leak free:
Richen the idle screw when it is beginning its warmup. (also the load screw)
At idle, it should be set for best idle. When at high Idle, the load screw (lower larger) should be turned out until carbony black smoke appears, then turned in for clearing up the smoke. Running with a load will allow the best adjustment of the load screw, do it in 1/2 turn increments to get best power. W/O smoke.
If the tractor is not using oil, it may not need a rebuild. If it has not been run hard, or had its valves adjusted, do the valve adjustment, then run it hard. JimN
 
How are you using the choke? A cold engine may need the choke on about half way for a while until it warms up. Pulling it on & off is not the right way. As it warms up, you will notice black smoke and it will start to gallop. Then give it enough air to smooth out. Low compression takes a richer mixture to fire.
 
Did you do the test with a hot engine, throttle wide open, fresh charged battery, choke open and all the plugs out?
Still the 60-90 is worrisome. Pull the head, drop a piston, check end gap on rings, piston to sleeve gap on that bad cylinder. Sounds like it's toast to me.

Gordo
 
I did the compression test with a cold engine. I pulled one plug at a time. new battery
 
Before you get out the wrenches,

Get 'er good and hot, then run a can or two of GM's Top Engine Cleaner thru it as per the directions on the can. Let it set overnight to soak.

If you 'per chance' have a carbon problem, this will certainly help it breathe again.

Otherwise, you need an overhaul, as low compressiion is low compression and there's no band aid in this world that's ever gonna heal it.

Allan
 
I think people are getting a little carried away with putting new rings on. Poor rings will usually be indicated by hard starting or by blue smoke from oil.

You have a mixture problem.
 
Ok I think my carb may be off of an H that ran on kerosene. It seams to have that little petcock on the side that you can drain gas out of. If this is the case, are the carbs the same as for the gas only engines??
 
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