I broke my 300U

I got a 300 Utility a couple of weeks ago and it ran fine when I brought it home. The only issue was the hydraulics weren't working. I ended up going through all that, replaced the screen on the pickup tube and it worked great after getting it back together.

The PO had converted the tractor to 12volt, but it didn't look right and all of the wiring was cobbled together and taped. It bugged me, so I decided to try following the wiring diagrams I found on this site. I'll explain how it was hooked up before I started.

The Alternator only had 1 wire connected and it was ran from the alt to the top of the relay on the starter. 1 and 2 were disconnected.

A wire from the starter relay to the ignition switch and from the ignition switch to the starter button and back to the side of the starter relay.

Finally, 1 wire from the started switch to the positive side of the coil.

None of the lights were connected and the wires to the ammeter were cut.

Like I said, this configuration worked fine, but my success with the hydraulics had me feeling good about tearing out all the wiring and making it right.

I followed Farmall Bob's Farmall Super H/M 12 volt alternator conversion diagram to the letter, except I didn't have a diode or a warning light. I planned on getting those later today when Napa opened up.

I got a little anxious and wanted to see if it would start and run. Well sparks started shooting out of the ammeter and it began backfiring and popping. I figured the ammeter was bad and that's why the PO bypassed it. So I went back to the original configuration and it's not running like it was. I've been at it all night and decided to get a little sleep and maybe take time to figure out what happened. I've learned it's better to just walk away at times like this because getting mad and being tired usually makes things worse.

Amp meters should not spark because they are not connected internally to ground at all. If they spark it is because they have either an internal fault to ground (internal insulation bad)or a connection is loose or corroded. If you have a Ohm meter, disconnect both sides of the amp meter and see if there is a path to ground between either terminal, and the case of the meter. If there is any reading on the meter (should show the same reading as if the leads were not connected) the meter is bad. Now do the same across the meter terminals this should show no resistance, (meter should swing full scale, or go to 0 (or near 0) ohms. If it has no conduction it is bad, if it reads full swing, or Zero (or near) it is OK.
Check those wires for clean shiny ends, and proper size. The wire to the amp meter from the starter relay should be 10 gauge. The wire from the amp gauge to the alternator big terminal should be 10 ga. It needs the light or diode to make things work correctly, do not use it without that feature. (it might work, but it might give un expected results (like not shutting off). Be patient, be thorough, and keep us informed on what is happening. JimN

I replaced the amp meter and discovered the alternator terminals aren't labeled 1 and 2. They are labeled R and T? Anyone know how that corresponds to 1 and 2? Also, what does the warning light do in the wiring diagram? It says you can do either that or the diode, but I've seen diagrams calling for both.

Thanks.