farmall 200 gov adjustment

redblood

Member
I tried to find this info with the search function. I found one with close to my situation but no specific answer so,

I am in the process of adjusting my carb to governor linkage per the I&t manual but,
The manual says to hold the governor arm towards the carb and the carb at WOT. Adjust the clevis so the pin slide through.

On my Tractor which I rebuilt the governer , with the input bushing, new input arm, new top arm, new spring, new bumper spring and new rock shaft bearings.

When I hold the rockshaft arm back towards carb the clevis cannot be adjusted far enough to put the pin in. The rockshaft arm appears to have aprox. 3/8 of free play.

If you push it forward till just the slack is out of it. Would this be the spot to adjust to?

Or is there possibly something I did wrong in the governer?
 
With the engine off un hook the clevis.Then open throttle full. Now adjust the clevis so the pin goes in holding carb linkage open full then adjust the clevis. When your gov housing was off did the input shaft have a lot of wobble. They can be rebushed then throttle response will be like new again. I have a jig i made to hold the housing so i can mount on the table of the milling machine and bore the hole to 5/8 then replace with a 5/8x1/2 brass bushing the gov then works perfect.
 
I too made a jig like your are talking about and it works perfect. I make the bushings with some old brass stock I have. But anyways I adjusted the clevis so the pin slides through with carb full rearward and governer at zero on the spring (forward part of the slack) Seems to be working fine. I need to put the rad back on and "road" test.

By the way Gene how much do the exhaust pots cost to referb for the A pnuematic lift? I have all the pieces but the exhaust pot on the manifold. Actually I beleive I have the bottom of one and the rod that goes through. Do not beleive the flap is still there. The muffler rusted - fell into the manifold and I have not dug it out yet. That tractor is possibly next winters project.
 
The whold assy opt as you cann it is called the pressure valve on the parts thingy. Rite now the flapper called valve in the assy seems to be the hardest thing to get as all of the old obsolute parts places dont seem to have any. I did get two new ones a few yrs back and should have bought more they were 28 each and i thought well i have plenty lf parts now and here we are getting thin. The bottom threaded part gets broke off and not hard to braze or tig new threads on. But the flapper is the sticker now. I use three systems and sold a complete one not long ago there is a lot of interest in those systems as they are fun to show and even more fun to use. I am going to machine a flopper just to see how it will last as the original ones were cast. A guy in Minn was going to cast the bowl assys dont know if he did or not. Local people do small castings mite see them if they could do the job. You can get with me when ready and we can go from there.
 

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