charging by by passing the light switch

I have a farmall A with a dist. The light are shot so I took them off cut the wires back and tapped them. THe light switch doesn't work and is bad. I want to still use the charging system but un-hook the light switch all together. Can anyone tell m if this will work and how to by pass it?
Thanks
Chad

Sure:
Use a switch that has three terminals on it. And two positions. 10 amp rating is OK with waterproof being very good.
Run the wire from the F terminal on the Gen. to the center terminal. Run a wire from one of the others directly to ground (shiny bright metal)
wire the other terminal to a 40 watt ceramic resistor of about 2.5 ohms or so, then to ground from there. The switch will control charge rate. Resistor side for low charge, Ground side for full charge rate. Run for less than 20 minutes on full rate, then switch to low rate. The resistor will get hot, so protect it from you, and other meltable things. An amp gauge is a good thing in this setup. as is checking for excessive heating and loss of water from the battery. This will duplicate what is in the light switch for the gen. JimN

I will be hooking it up with a amp gage.
So how is that done.
My question is both of the wires go to ground?

So there would be no wire going to the battery?
Its done your way because its positive ground?
Thanks
Chad

What the LHBD light switch does on those cutout relay ONLY (no voltage regulator) charging systems is to provide a ground to the gennys FLD post via the wire from FLD on genny up to the LHBD light switch. For High Charge its simply a dead ground while Low Charge is to ground via a small resistor located on the switch.

Soooooooo if you dont have the light switch and want the genny to High Charge you simply ground out its FLD post (rig a wire or switch etc from FLD on genny to ground) but if you want a lower charge you have to place around a 2 to 3 ohm power resistor (25 watts ought to get it) in series between the gennys FLD post and ground.

One could rig a SPDT toggle switch where one position is high charge and it connects the gennys FLD post direct to ground but when switched to Low Charge theres a 2 to 3 ohm 25 watt power resistor in series between the genny and ground.

The keep an eye on the battery to make sure its NOT overcharging evidenced by excess outgassing and/or boil over of acid. Depeninng on the load and if its a mag or coil ignition and RPM and the gennys condition and location of third brush (if so equipped) one might leave it on high charge for 30 minutews or so after start up but then switch to low charge IT ALL DEPENDS ON TEH BATETRY N GENNY AND RPM AND THE LOADS thats why a voltage regulator is best cuz it automatically regulates the charge rate.

If the tractors not ran for long periods (or the RPM is low and its a coil ignition) you may get by with simply dead shorting the gennsy FLD post so shes always in the max charge condition and/or set the third brush for a lower charge rate and just leave the gennsy FLD post permnanently dead grounded n not fool with any low charge resistor or switch.....

John T

One fat wire from ARM (larger gen terminal) goes to the cutout relay ARM terminal from the cutout Bat terminal, a heavy wire goes to the Amp gauge terminal that is not connected to the starter switch battery cable terminal.
Both the resistor loose end, and the other wire from the new switch are grounded. The voltage from the Delco generator comes from the F terminal and grounds to charge. The cutout relay shuts it all off when the tractor stops, no need for an off position on the new switch. JimN

Gee we sound alike on this!! Jim

If we BOTH agree its gotta be right huh ?? (Great minds think alike????) lol Looks like we BOTH were posting at the same time also

Take care Jim

JT

Let me suggest this: If your A now has a cutout, purchase and wire in a voltage regulator ($45 or so). It will do a better job maintaining the battery than will any operator with a manual charge control switch. The battery will then stay up and enjoy a longer life.

Use this diagram to wire up a regulator. If you do not need lights simply omit the fuse, light switch and wires to the lights.

Nice drawing Bob. I can use it when I rewire my LTV Kid. It has a generator and a Perkins 4.108 diesel. I had thought of an 1-wire alt, but this makes it seem easy to wire a gen/reg setup! If I had known it was that simple I would have not gutted my Farmall 504 diesel and installed a 10SI 1-wire.

Charles