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Should I replace this clutch??

B

Butch WI

Member
Guys I don't know if I should replace this clutch or not

v6797.jpg



v6798.jpg




The tractor seems to have split pretty easy, I think it may have been done once before. If the fingers are that flat on the side view does that mean it has a lot of life left? The clutch never slipped in the 50 or so hours I have put on the tractor. Even while pulling 3-14's in heavy soil.

I have never done a clutch before but I think there is alot of adjustment left.

Butch
 

Don't quote me on this but I don't think you can make any sort of determination about the viability of that clutch or pressure plate from the pictures you've displayed. You need to look at the condition and thickness of the pad left on the clutch disk, and the condition of the surfaces on the pressure plate and flywheel.
 
That pressure plate looks fine to me. As long as none of the springs are broke, and the ends of the fingers that ride on the throw out bearing are not wore to badly it will be fine.
 
Well I'll Quote you, the meat of the sandwich is not visible. To me the Finger position looks to have expected location, but W/O looking at the dick, No telling. Replace the pilot bearing as well while you are in there. JimN
 
Butch, I stuck this picture on a thread lower down, it's from a Super-A and I don't know what tractor you got there, but my point is about the friction disc within. Like some of these guys are warning you, WHAT IF your friction disc material is only 1/64" away from those rivets? You'll have to open 'er back up a lot sooner than you expected. Now's the time to take a good look.

clutchdisc.JPG
 
As others have mentioned you will need to remove your pressure plate and look at the amount of wear on the clutch disk itself. In my opinion : If you plan on keeping it awhile, And also being as you have already done all of the work, I would go ahead and spend the 80.00 for a new clutch and install it.
 
You say the clutch was not slipping. I am wondering why you took the clutch out. Also what model is this tractor? Armand
 
The fingers appear to be in the correct position. But the picture doesn't mean much. The clutch adjusment is supposed to be done with the linkage, not the fingers, although it could be done that way. The disk, pressure plate, pilot and release bearing are available from Steel Wheel Ranch for $239 minus a $24 core charge. You have it split, might as well replace it. Do not bolt the rebuilt clutch on the flywheel as it is now before installation. Hang the disk and flywheel on their respective shafts, put the tractor together, then install the bolts and tighten. Unless you have the proper tool, it is near impossible to line up the pto and clutch shafts by eye. I did order a tool from this site, however it was plastic, and I was not sure it was correct, so I didn't use it.
 
Butch,
You have done the hard work. It would not make any difference to me what condition that clutch was in, I would not put the tractor back togather without a new clutch and preasure plate. If you know a good rebuild shop, take it to them and make it new. Larry in ATL
 
I would at least take a look at the clutch disc to see if its worn and getting close to the rivets. You can also inspect the surface of the flywheel. Cold and light rain here in MD. APG is putting up new buildings pdq for all the new transfers from NJ. Hal
 
With the best intentions (and a 9 pound cat perched on my chest while typing) it got away from me Yikes!!! JimN
 
I agree with the majority of posts here....remove, inspect and replace as needed. I would also suggest, that while you have it apart, replace the rear engine seal.
 
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