mccormik 10-20 pistons

Anonymous-0 · Mar 14, 2009

hi just got my 10-20 engine freed up and i am going to stone hone the sleeves how do know when the ring are clean i have been flushing them with desiel it takes a little while to floww past the rings yes i know it would be best to take it all apart but it is not in the buget so if i can get her running i can play with it untill i can restore the hole tractor and it will givr me time to find the side panels and other small parts i just have tractor fever i cant help it thanks DAN

douglas carroll · Mar 14, 2009

Dan, it won't take much money to a better job, just time, this is what I did, free up the engine, remove pistons from bottom, keep track of shim count for each piston, number each piston with a arrow towards the fan or front, hone each cylinder completely, put in new rings from Alderson tractor parts ( about $24. each ) or use your old ones if you don't have the money for the rings, just remove them gentley and clean ring grooves, reinstall, these motors only spin 1150 rpm, they are not a nascar engines, you'll be surprised how nice it will run with freed up rings as well, don't forget to evaluate valves while head is off,

James Williams · Mar 14, 2009

Rice Equ has the rings

jimmy

F-Dean · Mar 14, 2009

The rods and caps usually have 1, 2, 3 or 4 dots corresounding to their placement. Write down which one is #1 (ususally the front one) and the side on which the dots are located.

Anonymous-0 · Mar 14, 2009

yah that sound like a good idea they will slide out the bottom past the crank so all i need to do is drop the oil pan and take off the caps and pull the pistons out or is there more to it than that think there is any chance it will fire up with out doing that not to be lazy but some times i dont know when to stop you know how that can go sleves,bearings,seals,and the list would go on thanks

spiffy1 · Mar 15, 2009

(quoted from post at 21:50:58 03/14/09) i dont know when to stop you know how that can go sleves,bearings,seals,and the list would go on thanks

Yepppp! I have a couple I just broke loose, lubed everything good, and still run. And then, there is the opposite scenario too: $100 of rings and $100 of gaskets, maybe sleeves don't sound so bad.....it's this far apart, maybe mains..... oh boy, where to stop...

A lot of compression loss and oil burning can happen from the head, but that can get out of budget control really fast when it's times 8; $500 is pretty easy there if you need some guides and/or valves, then it makes the rest of the price creap so much sneakier to ponder too.....

spiffy1 · Mar 15, 2009

Re-reading your original post, I'd concur with the above posts:
Note the piston locations if they aren't already marked, remove the rings and clean them and the grooves on each one.
Keep the shim stack locations as previously noted, but Plasti-gage is cheap (a $2.00 strip should do all 4 with a couple trys each) so you can set them easy enough.

Have fun!

F-Dean · Mar 15, 2009

How tight do you set yours using plasti-guage?

Anonymous-0 · Mar 15, 2009

it was not stuck that bad so i will first try to oil it up good and see what happens if she dose not go i will do the job the right way i will keep my fingers crossed thanks a lot for the info dan

douglas carroll · Mar 15, 2009

don't worry about crank bearings, they are ball bearings, just at least drop pistons past the crank and clean , reassemble

James Williams · Mar 15, 2009

Dan,I have a friend that restored a 10-20,his was stuck,he broke it loose,did a head job,put it back together and it will start first crank,with no smoke,you never know

jimmy

Anonymous-0 · Mar 15, 2009

yes i think it is a gambel whats the worst that could happen it could use some oil or break some rings then it will for sher ned a rebould from what you all have told me it is 50-50 odds i will just roll the dice and see what i am delt thanks

spiffy1 · Mar 15, 2009

(quoted from post at 06:49:44 03/15/09) How tight do you set yours using plasti-guage?

.003" However, there is a good chance a little out of round on the crank will make it more like .002 at the tightest point and maybe .005 at the loosest. The shims are .002 (so you can adjust roughly to the .001th by 1 less in one side, but in reality that's splitting hairs for the low RPMs and large bearing area with these) and if you have one layer more than just where it would bind at it's tightest point (assuming it's not tight all around or bind at all after adding a layer), you should be good to go.

Bob Kerr · Mar 15, 2009

My 10-20 was stuck bad. I lightly honed the cyls and they cleaned up real nice like that. I readjusted the rod bearings and polished the crank journals with crocus cloth and reused the rod bearings. New rings and a better set of piston pins later and she ran like a top so I put her to work.

mccormik 10-20 pistons

Anonymous-0

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douglas carroll

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James Williams

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F-Dean

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Anonymous-0

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spiffy1

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F-Dean

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douglas carroll

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Bob Kerr

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