Author	[Modern View]
JWinIowa 08-18-2012 23:39:25 50.83.249.0 Report to Moderator	Can anybody tell me anything about the clutch in a 1210 Case what type of clutch it is, any oddities about it, and how difficult it is to replace. Have a 1210 here that wont move but the hyadraulics and pto work, and this thing is unlike any tractor Ive been around in regards to how its put together. Any help or advice is appreciated. [Reply]   [No Email]
RGMartin 08-20-2012 08:28:21 75.88.143.6 Report to Moderator	Re: Case 1210 Clutch in reply to JWinIowa, 08-18-2012 23:39:25   It would be worth the value of the tires plus what it is worth for scrap iron, plus maybe $500-750 for a good engine, and a few high demand parts. They aren't a very highly valuable tractor unless in top shape. I'd give $75 for the grille if original and good. [Reply]  [No Email]
JWinIowa 08-20-2012 06:54:28 50.83.249.0 Report to Moderator	Re: Case 1210 Clutch in reply to JWinIowa, 08-18-2012 23:39:25   Another question just out of curiousity, if this is something we decide we're not interested in doing, what would a good running, and pretty darn straight 1210 that needs a clutch be worth in central Iowa? [Reply]  [No Email]
RGMartin 08-20-2012 05:33:35 75.88.143.6 Report to Moderator	Re: Case 1210 Clutch in reply to Adirondack case guy, 08-18-2012 23:39:25   Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see CAB??? What is a Cab? This one is a late built 76, probably got here in early 77. Only showing 800 hours on a working tach, as usual had been abused, and used until it wouldn't move anymore on its own. [Reply]  [No Email]
RGMartin 08-19-2012 18:11:38 75.88.143.6 Report to Moderator	Re: Case 1210 Clutch in reply to Camboted, 08-18-2012 23:39:25   Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see It had to cost more to use only the 1210 decals. The ones sold everywhere else were marked "1212 CASE DB", where the ones here were "1210 CASE", economy of scale says it cost them more. Same for 996 and 1412... It had to be a pride thing, or somehow thinking their name was more valuable without the DB on it... Anyway, I swore I'd never own a hydrashift, but one has appeared in my driveway recently. The transmission is one of the few things that actually worked. I have most of the bugs worked out on it except for Lucas, and have grown rather fond of the tranny set up. [Reply]  [No Email]
Case Nutty 1660 08-19-2012 18:23:00 75.127.24.27 Report to Moderator	Re: Case 1210 Clutch in reply to RGMartin, 08-19-2012 18:11:38   I always liked the Hydra/Shft units and put several thousand hours on a 1977 or 78 1212 decaled a 1210 only thing I did not like was the Sims cab had no A/C for the first two years and running a 10' rotary mowing ditches was a HOT job to say the least cnt [Reply]  [No Email]
RGMartin 08-19-2012 15:09:27 75.88.143.6 Report to Moderator	Re: Case 1210 Clutch in reply to JWinIowa, 08-18-2012 23:39:25   had another thought... It isn't a 1210 powershift/hydrashift/4 speed on the dash, AKA a 1212???? Whole nuther can of worms/set of possible problems, clutch is the same though. [Reply]  [No Email]
JWinIowa 08-20-2012 06:50:33 50.83.249.0 Report to Moderator	Re: Case 1210 Clutch in reply to RGMartin, 08-19-2012 15:09:27   No I dont believe its a poweshift, theres no lever anywhere I can identify as a power shift, Im headed over there in a bit to take a little close look at it. [Reply]  [No Email]
Case Nutty 1660 08-19-2012 16:08:54 75.127.24.27 Report to Moderator	Re: Case 1210 Clutch in reply to RGMartin, 08-19-2012 15:09:27   Rich never did understand why they went to just a 1210 decal, I know when we sold out in 1976 they still had 1210/1212 to tell you std or PS must have been a bean counter "saving" money cnt [Reply]  [No Email]
RGMartin 08-19-2012 06:11:51 75.88.143.6 Report to Moderator	Re: Case 1210 Clutch in reply to JWinIowa, 08-18-2012 23:39:25   2 different clutches were available in them, one by Borg and Beck which is more common, the other by LUK. Both are true independent units. The B&B has 12 springs around the outside, the LUK used a Bellville washer for a spring. Type can be easily IDed through the hole in the bottom of the housing. I have seen several B&B units with sheared center rivets on the traction disc. The results of "hard" shifts. These will generally still run when the linings are shot. The LUK doesn't drive well once the linings are shot as the Bellville spring doesn't have as much throw as the coil springs. Throwout bearings are by far the most common failure, any clutch noise should be looked into immediately as a failed bearing can trash the entire throw out mechanism(arms, anti rattle springs, sleeve). Aftermarket parts are available. I do a "stagger split" when I do them. Split between the clutch throwout shafts, across the middle, and across the rear of the engine. Having that shelf makes it real easy to get back together. Fuel tank(have to block it up), dash, and steering column can stay in place. The real bear is that you have to remove the front throw out shaft once you slide the halves 2" apart. Two 3/8" bolts and 2 woodruff keys through the gap. The other possibility is a broken trans input shaft. It is a pretty big job to do, nothing really difficult but lots of steps. I&T says you have to remove the PTO housing, not sure why as I have never done it. [Reply]  [No Email]