allis c governor return spring

TomClouse

New User
I recently purchased a governor return spring for my ac-c to replace the 8" homemade, jerry-rigged spring that the previous owner had put on.

The reproduction spring is about 4" long and I can not figure out where it is supposed to attach.

Would somebody be kind enough to explain, or take a picture for me of the correct application?
Thank you for your help.

Tom
 
If you are talking the anti-surge spring it will hook into a hole in the throttle rod near the carburetor and then it goes up and hooks to the manifold stud.

<a href="http://s265.photobucket.com/albums/ii205/zebra123_1/?action=view&current=Picture004.jpg" target="_blank">
Picture004.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket
</a>
 
The only spring that's about 4 inches long regarding the governor is the "anti-surge" spring that Jeff Z mentions. The official name of it is "link spring". It hooks up as Jeff Z indicates. Below is a photo showing where it attaches when the manifold is removed. With manifold in place, just slip the spring up behind it and hook onto the manifold stud shown.
AntiSurge.jpg
 
Rod, You and Jeff are the best! Thank you so much for the help. I also want to thank all of the other allis chalmers fans out there who have taught me so much, just by reading their posts.

Tom
 
Thanks Jeff.
I hooked it up and the tractor reved up like a bat out of hell. I could not get it to idle down. Is the governor broken? I can't figure this out???

The old spring went back towards the driver and hooked up to the last manifold bolt. It was a pretty strong spring. Anybody else have this problem?

Thanks.
Tom
 
Are you sure you have the correct spring? It's not a strong spring at all - very light. Does it look exactly like the one in the picture? In fact, the tractor should run pretty good without it although there might be a tendency to surge some under load.
 
The spring on the carburetor link as I show in the photo should NOT go back towards the driver. In fact, if you had a strong spring going back towards the driver in that location, it's some kind of home-grown "fix" for some problem. Defintely not OEM. You may have a different governor issue.
 
Thanks Rod. I will look at the governor tomorrow after work. I hope that something is flipped backwards, reversing the governor rod action.
 
From what you've said so far, I would expect to find a problem with the governor weights. The action of the governor weights is always to CLOSE the throttle against governor spring pressure. That's the spring at the governor - the short stiff one. Do you have a copy of the AC B/C Service Manual?
 
Probly a cross over arm adjustment is needed.

At idle the governor needs to have about 1/16 inch misalignment at the front connection pushing the the butterfly closed.
If not it lets the rpm's come up.

To understand the governors job being a rpm limiter. The spinning weights job is to slow the rpm's down and the throttle lever puts pressure on the governor spring to over come the job of the spinning weights.

With the cross over arm pulled back toward the carburetor/engine block and the link pushed back against butterfly stop screw the link should lack 1/16" from entering the crossover arm. You would have to move the cross over arm back toward the radiator for it to enter. The puts the needed pressure against the stop screw at idle.

They must have been trying to use a strong spring to keep the butterfly closed.

It can be weights but they are not often the cause.
 
Dick,

I did what you said, along with using the pictures provided by Jeff and Rod. The cross-over arm was off by an inch. I bent it to be within the 1/16" specks that you mentioned and it runs like a charm. The governor actually works as it should!

I send a sincere thanks to all who helped me out with this problem.

Tom
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top