Joe (Wa) wrote on Sunday, April 01, 2001 (PDT): Tommy, Enjoyed your article. Reminds me of some of the shade tree changes I been involved with. A suggestion in converting your 3/8" pulley to 1/2". Split the existing pulley, size a spacer for the desired belt width (flat washer often works well) and mount back on the alternator shaft. Take a good look at your 3/8" pulley & alt shaft before you jump into this. If there is no positive stop, either press or shoulder fit on the shaft, you may have to bolt the pulley halves together with two equally spaced bolts (balance). I've done it both ways without any problems, could be just luck. Joe Bob George from South Carolina wrote on Sunday, April 01, 2001 (PDT): I have changed a bunch of 8N and 9N fords over to 12 volts. I use a Dodge ignition resistor to reduce voltage from 12 to 6 going into the coil and points.This works even on the distributer and coil on the older tractors which are on the front of the motor. Roy Reed/Underdog New Mexico wrote on Monday, April 02, 2001 (PDT): Great article & beautiful 4000. I have a simular 4000 I hope to restore or at least improve. If those decals are replacements, I would like to know your source. Thanks andy jenkusky wrote on Monday, April 02, 2001 (PDT): great article, very well written. Question-- does a coversion like this take away any antique value of a tractor? I have a 1959 ford work master. Would love to convert. thanks. Jim (Wyoming) wrote on Monday, April 02, 2001 (PDT): Nice article. Do you have a phone # or Website, or E-mail for Genesee Products? joe Tysinger wrote on Tuesday, April 03, 2001 (PDT): Great story guy, but fifty bucks is not too expensive for a good one wire alternator I build a ton of them that sell for about $80.00 but they are completely new, I hope your conversion continues to show well it sounds like you really enjoy tinkering with your tractor, good luck. bob w. wrote on Thursday, April 05, 2001 (PDT): converted my 240 IH to 12 volts . i used the chrysler balast resister instead of buying a new coil and that seems to work well , also had to add a 12 volt supression capasitor on the pos. side of the coil to absorbe flyback voltage from the coil , the six volt on didnt seem to do well as my charging voltage was unstabile bob w. wrote on Thursday, April 05, 2001 (PDT): converted my 240 IH to 12 volts . i used the chrysler balast resister instead of buying a new coil and that seems to work well , also had to add a 12 volt supression capasitor on the pos. side of the coil to absorbe flyback voltage from the coil , the six volt on didnt seem to do well as my charging voltage was unstabile. ps nice article Jerry wrote on Tuesday, April 17, 2001 (PDT): This was a most informative and well written article. Tommy Duval has made it easy for us shade tree mechanics. Well done, Tommy. Jerry South Mills, NC Philip wrote on Monday, April 23, 2001 (PDT): A CHEAPER/EASIER WAY; Enjoyed the article. I converted my Ford 860 (1954) about 1 1/2 years ago. I was going to buy a kit (about $225 in Northern Virginia) plus battery...but when I was back home in Mississippi, an elderly mechanic at Stegall Ford in Pontotoc, MS said he'd sell me a kit, etc (at same price in N. VA) or that there was an easier/cheaper way. He said he'd learned it several years back (although he was originally sceptical when an old farmer had first showed him) and had converted a number of tractors since then. He sold me a 12 volt regulator (about $28), sent me down to the local auto parts store for a resistor (about $3), and gave me the following directions. Replace your battery. Replace your 6 v regulator with the 12 v - make sure you polarize it correctly. Put the resistor in between the coil and the regulator. Put 12 v bulbs in your lights. And you're ready to go. Besides keeping all the original equipment (didn't have to replace the generator or put new harness on, etc), this saved me about $200 and was very simple to do (I could even do it). I'ved used my tractor pretty heavily (I bale several thousand bales of hay/cut,rake,bale,fertilize, etc) since then and have had no problems starting it. One person opined that the battery would eventually bleed down...it hasn't yet. Maybe it will one day, but for me overall this was a much easier/cheaper route which has worked well, and IF I have to charge the battery every couple of years, that's fine with me. Kip Parham wrote on Sunday, April 29, 2001 (PDT): It looks like your coversion went great I converted an old 4000 over a couple of years ago I used a regular three wire alternator with the internal reg I ran the 10 gauge wire off the stud terminal on the back of the alternator to the hot side of the solenoid ran the small red wire out of the two prong plug back to the stud terminal on the end of the alternator ran the small white wire from the two prong plug to one side of the old gen light then ran a wire from the other side of the old gen to the ignition switch put a 12 bulb in the gen light it functions as it should the only thing is if the bulb ever blows your alternor want put out If you try this without a light you will have add a diode or voltage will feed back from the white to the cold side of the ignition switch when you try to cut it off and it will keep running we also changed the fuel gauge to a 12 volt put a universal sender in the tank it all worked great JIM L LEDBETTER wrote on Monday, April 30, 2001 (PDT): THE TRACTOR I AM IN THE PROCESS BYING, HAS YOUR TYPE 12 VOLT SYSTEM. BUT I CAN NOT FIND OUT WHAT THE HORSE POWER RATEING ON THIS TRACTOR IS. PLEASE CAN YOU TELL ME. THANK YOU JIM L LEDBETTER Fred Decker wrote on Thursday, June 07, 2001 (PDT): Tommy- I converted my 4000 from gen to alt.Works great. But I have a generator light and don't know what to do with it to get it to go out after starting the tractor. Is this something I should get rid of? Your article was great--THANKS Fred. Colonel Jerry Irwin wrote on Wednesday, April 24, 2002 (PDT): Thanks. The info is clear even to me. Only way to improve on it would be to add a finished work wiring diagram or direct the reader to an existing one. I'm in the progress of rebuilding a NAA and am just starting to rewire it for 12 Volts. this is a big help. Best regards, Jerry Ken W. wrote on Friday, May 24, 2002 (PDT): Dear Sirs, Great article, it seemed to have come along at the most appropriate time. I have most recently purchased the same tractor at least I think it is. The sheet metal is the same and the gent I purchased it from said it was a 1964. I hope you could give me some info. on how to identify the tractor exactly, as I don't know the difference from a 2000 to a 4000. I know the engine has been changed to a new crate engine from ford. Therefore that date code is out the window. This tractor has a selectospeed transmission, could you tell me if these are interchangeable with other ford tractors with the same tranny, and how difficult would it be to put a standard shift tranny in this tractor? Supposedly this one has some problems. I have yet to start and run the tractor so I don't know the issues. How accessible are parts for these selectospeed trannys? Is there a common thing that goes wrong with them? I have heard mostly negative feedback from local farmers about the selectospeed. Such as, "when that damn tractor went through my green house that was the last straw". Apparently it was left unattended while iddling and slid into forward. The farmer sold it and bought an 8n with standard shift. Any help with these matters would appreciated beyond belief. Thank you, KenW. tommy thompson wrote on Friday, September 19, 2003 (PDT): Tommy you are most helpful. I am grateful for the info. Looked everywhere for advise and there you were. THANK YOU, Tommy thompson Pat Weber wrote on Monday, November 03, 2003 (PST): I am trying to convert a '59 641 Workmaster using this article as a guide. I do not get the test light to light up when I touch the "S" terminal on the starter solenoid during the "now try it out" portion of the conversion. I have tried two different solenoids thinking that the first one may be bad. Any ideas, or maybe this conversion will only work as described for the 2000 and 4000 series tractors. david wrote on Wednesday, February 18, 2004 (PST): i tried this application on same tractor only difference used 12v solenoid more than likely autoomotive & instead of key switch have 35a on/off switch alternator is now shot not sure worked previous, since just purchused tractor, & moment i touched negative battery post fried wire from battery post position on solenoid to on/off switch. have new alternator, new ford tractor 12v solenoid but am hesitant to proceed without more info FIRST ? The 3 position alternator-BATT on alt to side post of solenoid where battery connects SECOND ? 1&2 TERMS OF ALT some aricles say jump together,some don't hook up,some say 1 to BATT on alt, some say to volt/amp + position on gage NEXT is key switch vs on/off toggle switch (same-same) or not? LAST maybe is instead of OEM starter switch have push button switch for mounted externally on top of switch 2 wires maybe culprit#6 Ray,IN wrote on Wednesday, February 25, 2004 (PST): This is a well written article. It does not however overcome the well known fact that a properly maintained 6V system will perform just as well as a properly maintained 12V system. Now if performing the conversion is a matter of choice rather than necessity, so be it. Just don't attempt to pass the conversion off as a necessary item because the 6V system won't start the tractor. Wendy wrote on Thursday, March 04, 2004 (PST): Can someone please tell me where I can find the same detail but for a john deere B, 1945? HELP! Bryan Sparks wrote on Sunday, March 28, 2004 (PST): I have to commend the author for taking the time to explain the 6 to 12 volt process so clearly! Thanks for volunteering your time to do this as I will probably be making this modification later this Spring. Much appreciated! Bryan Sparks wrote on Sunday, March 28, 2004 (PST): I have to commend the author for taking the time to explain the 6 to 12 volt process so clearly! Thanks for volunteering your time to do this as I will probably be making this modification later this Spring. Much appreciated! NICE TRACTOR!!! Mike Naughton wrote on Friday, June 04, 2004 (PDT): I have a 64 4000 gas. It has been converted to 12v. It worked fine for a few years. Now the charging circuit is pushing max on my ammeter, it boiled out the battery,what gives? Any ideas? thanks Mike John A. Owens wrote on Thursday, December 30, 2004 (PST): A very through and to the point on converting from 6 to 12 volts. Thanks, John Dan Hill wrote on Monday, April 25, 2005 (PDT): A six volt system in good condition will start fine.My 54 600 starts at -10 with out trouble.All the 12V conversions Ive seen are screwed up messes.6V tractors usually have old worn out batteries , bum cables etc.An 8n ive looked at had a 10A ammeter in place.Since the meter was pinned full time I replaced it with a 60A meter.Found alternator charges 40a full time.Internal reg is probably shot.Battery wont hold a charge.Next step is a hydrometer check,I expect battery is sick from constant overcharge.The 10a Ammeters insulators were cracked and charred.The 6v starters always suffer as increasing the voltage increases the speed of a DC motor.Broken bendix springs and bolts are common.Ring gears stripping teeth and rings gears slipping on the fly wheel are another. Dan Hill wrote on Wednesday, May 25, 2005 (PDT): Looked at a Farmall B that some one buggered up with a 12 volt conversion.Had an odd looking starter. 6v generator was in place,disconnected, no drive belt,no regulator.12v battery sitting loose on a side mount bracket.Looks like you run it till the battery is discharged then get out the battery charger.Noticed bondo used to cover up cracks in block.No radiator cap. Walter Perky wrote on Sunday, July 31, 2005 (PDT): I have a 4000 Ford tractor, 6 volt system. The generator doesn't keep it charged. I noticed J.C. Whitney has a alternator for 6 volt systems. Has anyone tried that? and did it work out for you? Walt. Herb Janssen wrote on Tuesday, October 18, 2005 (PDT): The article is great! It gives a wonderful explination of the entire process. In the article mention was made of the alternator that have three wires but no description of how to modify the process was given. I was give one such alternator when I bought the tractor and would like to use it. Any suggestions? Thanks! Steve wrote on Sunday, March 26, 2006 (PST): A very good article. The easiest way I have found to convert a 6V to a 12V is; 1. Have the 6V generator winding changed to 12V. Keeps the old look. 2. Change the 6V regulator to 12V 3. Place a resistor between the coil and the regulator to prevent the 12V from burning the points. 4. Change the 6V coil to 12Volts 5. change the 6V battery to 12Volts. I converted a 1964 4000 Ford by this method and the system works excellently. The generator looks original. The red light on the dash comes on with the switch and goes out when the generator starts to charge the battery. Buffum wrote on Saturday, April 15, 2006 (PDT): I was wondering how to keep from blowing the points out, we keep going threw points and now I,m not getting it to fire. Do you have any ideas for me? reb-in-pa wrote on Friday, February 08, 2008 (PST): What I read is well-written, but it must have been edited in the latest re-printing. I can't find any instructions of how to wire the alternator. Can you help? reb-in-pa Mickey Keener wrote on Sunday, September 05, 2010 (PDT): This model tractor came from the factory with 12 volt system as well as some other earlier tractors.I have a 64--4000 that I bought new and still have the original 12 volt generator on it. Slick wrote on Friday, September 10, 2010 (PDT): Nice looking Tractor I have a 1963 Ford 4000. I switched over to 12 Volts about 10 years ago and also put in a Electronic Ignition. I just love the 12 Volts. It works so much better in the winter time. Also in the winter of 2006 going into 2007 a friend and I rebuilt the motor, boy is this baby sweet, a full 63 horse's. If you get to read this, send me your E-mail and I will send you a picture of my tractor. Make sure when you send me a E-mail that you say FORD 4000 on your E-mail so I know who it is from. Thanks Slick Have a great day GOS BLESS Marvin wrote on Friday, May 06, 2011 (PDT): I have bought a conversion kit and wired the tractor according to the diagram that came in the box. All the lights check out but when i push the plunger nothing happens. I have a 4 post 6 volt solenoid in there now. The 4 posts consist of the top goes to battery, then next is I and goes to the switch, then S which I have my plunger on, then the bottom goes to the starter. Anything helpful will be appreciated thank you. mike wrote on Friday, December 28, 2012 (PST): when i cranck it over it show no spark untell i let off the button. it sometimes starts is that right? Email please thanks mike Chris Shaefer wrote on Sunday, July 09, 2017 (PDT): chris@sillygoatssoap.com Chris Shaefer wrote on Sunday, July 09, 2017 (PDT): I just did my 1963 Ford 2000. Napa gave me a ST51 solenoid, telling me it was the same as the st56. took me 2 days to figure out the difference between a grounded base and a insulated base solenoid. Finally hunted down a st56 and it worked. I had your instructions in my hand all the way through and it was very thorough and correct. Thanks so much for this information. jim ralls wrote on Wednesday, October 18, 2017 (PDT): on my ford 2000 i don't get any volts to the s terminal with the switch on all the others are ok.why? jim r wrote on Tuesday, November 14, 2017 (PST): AFTER A 6 V TO 12V I GET NO VOLTS ON THE S TERMINAL ON THE SOLENOID. I SHOULD SAY THE TRACTOR IS A 1964 MOD 2000 4 CYL GAS, THAT HAD BEEN CONVERTED SOME TIME BEFOR I BOUGHT IT. THE SOLENOID WAS IN BAD CONDITION SO I REPLACED IT. THAT IS WHEN EVERYTHING WENT BAD.ANY COMMENTS WILL HELP.THANKKS TO ALL JIM R.

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