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Article Comments
Comments for JD Restoration Part 3
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Don Andersen wrote on Friday, December 01, 2000 (PST):
  • While I still can't see why anyone would spend so much time on a GREEN tractor, this was a great article. The pictures add a lot.
    Mike B. wrote on Friday, December 01, 2000 (PST):
  • Read you're story/presentation with great interest. Not only am I doing my first restoration, 1951 JD B, but I've also wanted to keep a jounal and post it, with pictures like you have. I too have encounterd one thing after another with my tractor and will be glad when I reach the stage of putting something together vs. more tear down and more $$$.
    gary heckathorn wrote on Thursday, December 14, 2000 (PST):
  • i'm finding your story very interesting , just wish you could have a sandblaster for all those parts , it would sure make your job easier. good luck on the rest of the job.
    Dean wrote on Saturday, December 16, 2000 (PST):
  • Nice to have the links right in the story to see what was being talked about. Nice G wrench also dont know if i would have come up with something like that. Keep up the good work and as of right now everything is looking really great.
    LONNY FREDERICK wrote on Tuesday, December 19, 2000 (PST):
  • YOU KNOW YOU SHOULD HAVE GOTTEN SOME PROFESSIONABLE HELP ON REPLACEING THE PARTS IN THE JOHN DEERE. IF I WERE YOU I WOULD MAKE SURE YOU HAVE SOMEONE WITH EXPERIENCE CHECK IT BEFORE YOU START DRIVING HER AGAIN. YOUR STORY WAS VERY INTERESTING. DO YOU HAVE ANY OTHER TRACTORS.COULD YOU SEND ME ANY PICTURES OF THEM? IF SO PLEASE DO. SINCERLY, LONNY FREDERICK
    John de Marrais wrote on Thursday, December 21, 2000 (PST):
  • In reference to your 2010 rebuild. You're asking for problems if you don't pull the fuel-injection pump apart and at least replace the governor weight-retainer ring. It was a weak spot in all the Roosa-Master (now Stanadyne)DB and JDB pumps. For someone that knows what he's doing it takes an hour, start to finish, to do the pump. The parts cost for a kit including the new ring and all seals and gaskets is about $35-$40. The ring is plastic, gets hard with age, and finally just shatters. When this happens, it usually plugs the fuel-return line with little black particles that look like mouse turds. Usually, at this point the engine looses power and quits, acting like it's run out of fuel. This is caused by excess housing pressure. It also tends to make the machine run a little erratic under no-load conditions, but with a 2010, they run that way anyway. Some people just keep cleaning out the return fuel fitting, and keep running the machine. If this is done, eventually, the pump gets destroyed. This is because the plastic ring serves as a vibration damper in the governor, and once gone, there is a set of steel rivets hammering against each other while the engine runs. Eventually they break off, then it's all over. Besides just replacing the ring, there is also an update kit that eliminates it entirely, but that cost a little more. It was an even worse problem when General Motors used the same pump in their pickup trucks. With the under-hood temperatures higher than what existed on farm tractors, the rings had even shorter lives. In reference to the fuel-injectors, they are one of the few that John Deere used that can usually be disassembled, cleaned, relapped, and made serviceable (without parts replacement). A somewhat unrelated note, 2010s and 1010s were noted for cracking between the cylinders - only visible with the sleeve deck pulled out. Any questions, ask. John de Marrais
    John de Marrais wrote on Friday, December 22, 2000 (PST):
  • If the pump was rebuilt the ring would have been replaced. As far as the fuel in the crankcase problem with John Deeres, it's usually due to improper injection pump installation. The DB and JD-B pump has two umbrella seals on its driveshaft, both facing opposite directions. Some pumps come off the engine with the shaft, so in that case there is no problem. Later John Deeres usually allow pulling the injection pump off the engine and leaving the driveshaft still attached to the engine. This is where the seal problem comes in. When re-installing the pump, it is difficult to get it to slide over one of the two umbrella seals (the one with lips facing it). Usually, it gets cut, and then the crankcase slowly fills with diesel fuel. There is a small hand-held compressor that is supposed to be used to facilitate such installation. Another note on your 2010 - it was available with a multitude of transmission and hydraulic options. If you have the HLR transmission, i.e. hydraulic high, low, and reverse coupled to a four-range gear transmission, it was subject to a massive recall by John Deere - in fact, maybe the largest they ever had. The setup had a tendency to take off in neutral, and many people were injured or killed with it. Subsequently sometime around 1985, following a class-action lawsuit, John Deere sought out all owners of 2010s (mostly industrial), 450, 450Bs, and 450C owners to get their machines upgraded (at no cost to the owner). I probably did over a hundred of them. One note on your engine block - if it is not cracked between the middle cylinder holes, visible from the top machined surface with the sleeve-deck removed, you have a rarity. I think out of all the 1010s and 2010s I've rebuilt, I've seen two that were not cracked. On the subject of indirect injection, utilizing precombustion chambers - in some cases this system is more efficient than direct injection. On a relative fuel efficiency scale of 9.3 as the worst, and 18.6 as the best, the 2010 diesel rates 13.9 at peak efficiency. That beats many newer tractors with direct-injection, one example being the direct-injected John Deere 3020 with an efficiency of 10.6. To the converse, one of the most fuel-efficient tractors ever built was the John Deere two-cylinder 720, built in 1956. It rates a peak fuel efficiency of 18.3. John de Marrais
    John de Marrais wrote on Saturday, December 23, 2000 (PST):
  • I was a John Deere mechanic for 20 years. Since then, I've kind of become a Case and Cletrac fan. Nothing wrong with John Deere, though. I will say the most convoluted machines John Deere ever built were the 1010 and 2020 series. The farm tractor was not too bad; the industrial series were nightmares. The ag-tractors had lousy brakes, however, even when new. The transmission you describe is either a "collar shift." or a "synchro-range." Basically, one allows limited shifting on the go, and one does not. The synchro-range allows shifting between two gears on the go, but the actual range changing usually requires stopping the machine. Within each quadrant or "range", the two forward gear choices are usually wide apart - like shifting first to third, or second to fourth - but I've seen variations. They are basically good transmissions except for two problems; The linkage gets sloppy and difficult to use (sometimes causing gear-jams), and they are prone to getting stuck in park, even on a slight grade. Many times I've had to hook another tractor to a machine and pull it backwards to get it out of park. These transmissions, when worn, tend to jump out of gear under low-load situations - e.g. - when using a low gear to hold you back coming down a hill. I was in an accident with a 3020 Synchro-Range. I was on a steep hill, coming down, the transmission popped out of gear, then the engine stalled, then I lost all remnants of steering and brakes. The latter (in a 3020) are fully hydraulic, and unlike those in an automobile, when the engine stalls they are completely gone. I jumped off the runaway tractor and came close to getting killed. Some later machines were greatly improved with parking-brake kits which provided the dual benefit of emergency stopping and also eliminated the "getting stuck in park" problem. As far as the HL-R transmission I mentioned earlier, it is a hydraulic transmission coupled to a four-speed collar-shift gear transmission. The four-speed component can only be shifted at a stand-still, but the high-low-reverse can be shifted at any time or speed. It enables shifting, at full throttle, from forward to reverse. Most of the 2010 bulldozers have it, along with some forklifts. The same goes for the next generation of the 2010 industrial - the 450, 450B, 450C, and so on. Again, the HL-R is fully hydraulic, unlike the Synchro-Range which is a constant-mesh gear transmission utilizing clutch-packs for synchronizers (instead of brass cone-clutches like an automobile). The 2010 agricultural tractor, basically, ended at that model designation. The later 2020 was an entirely different machine from the ground up. John de Marrais
    Scott Hetzel wrote on Friday, December 29, 2000 (PST):
  • Excellent Article you are doing a great job and there is nothing wrong with a 2010. Every tractor has it's fans and it's brow beaters. Remember this...The Impossible Just Takes Longer and more MONEY
    Bob Ryan wrote on Tuesday, February 15, 2005 (PST):
  • Better make sure all the timing marks as should be , when installing the injector pump it must line up exactly with the oil pump marks. I know i have a 2010 and just did a major overhaul of it 2 years ago. There a starnge engine and quit a lot of little things you might overlook and not inportant at the time . The pump will fit either way, if its wrong its trouble. Best bet is to install the injector pump with the oil pan off so you can see the cam timing marks, Good Luck,,
    jay wrote on Tuesday, September 11, 2007 (PDT):
  • Hello, where did you get all your gaskets, parts, etc..from
    Lorne wrote on Friday, August 13, 2010 (PDT):
  • My 2010 industrial has power steering. I've owned it ,and used it 5yrs, and I just found out a week ago. Question.Where does the pump (motor) get it's fluid. Where do I fill it? Where do I check if it is low? Please respond.
    Steve wrote on Saturday, December 08, 2012 (PST):
  • Where did you buy the pistons

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