Ian wrote on Friday, September 01, 2000 (PDT):Very good and clear article. Photos a great idea
Kenny wrote on Friday, September 01, 2000 (PDT):I agree with Ian. The photos are an excellent addtion. Really do add to article.
jason wrote on Friday, September 01, 2000 (PDT):great story, very interesting. try soaking the parts with automatic trabsmission fluid, some time that will free up stuck parts.
JohnT wrote on Friday, September 01, 2000 (PDT):Nice article. Just waiting for the next installment. Good work - Neat pictures
Bob Voshell wrote on Friday, September 01, 2000 (PDT):Mr Neilsen I follow the YT Magazine every month just to read the stories that people have experienced in thier lives on the farm and experiences, your story about overhualing a 2010 is enjoyable with the picture illustrations really makes the story interesting keep up the good work. Bob Voshell
The Red wrote on Saturday, September 02, 2000 (PDT):Great article on your teardown with nice detailed pictures. Your restoration will make my 1951 Farmall H engine rebuild last year look like a picnic! Good luck and I am looking forward to the next chapter.
Andy Semeiks wrote on Sunday, September 03, 2000 (PDT):Very enjoyable article. I'm looking forward to the next installation.
Roger Bennett wrote on Sunday, September 03, 2000 (PDT):What you're trying to remove is the basic Donaldson precleaner base.All you need to do is heat the bottom where the steel pipe from the air filter slides into.A little thing having to do with the more rapid coefficient of expansion of the diecast vs. the steel pipe will occur and you should be able to twist the base loose.Good luck mate!
Vernie (Indian Guy) wrote on Tuesday, September 05, 2000 (PDT):This is one of the best illustrated and organized restoration beginnings I've seen. Thanks for sharing!
norm wrote on Thursday, September 07, 2000 (PDT):really is a good article. if your overhaul turns out as good as your article it will be great. i have also taken a 2010 diesel motor apart. my sleeve assembly was broke but it was a parts engine and i didnt need that part but do have some parts. good luck with your ovrhaul
lynn wrote on Friday, September 08, 2000 (PDT):Greetings The first yhing I would have sugested was not getting into a John Deere. I would have thought a Duetz or a White. But thats your choice and NOT mine, Good Luck either way. LYNN
Daniel Tolle wrote on Sunday, September 10, 2000 (PDT):WHAT YOUR DOING LOOKS LIKE SO MUCH FUN , I WISH I WERE THERE TO HELP YOU . YOU HAVE PICKED A GOOD MAKE OF TRACTOR . I HAVE NEVER HEARD OF THE 2010 BUT WE HAVE A 2510 THAT WE USE ALOT AROUND OUR FARM . THE PIX'S AND STORY ARE GREAT . CAN'T WAIT FOR THE NEXT PAGE .
Karl Sampson wrote on Sunday, September 10, 2000 (PDT):I cant believe that 2010 even ran to drive it to the shop. You have alot of work ahead,but if you are a tractor nut (like me ).It will be worth it. I think you will need a engine kit .One with rod@main bearings,reground crank,pistons,new sleeve assembly. What condition is the block in? Before I forget,the air cleaner should just twist @turn off.I am interested in how things are going so I,ll stay In touch. Karl Sampson
Dick wrote on Wednesday, September 13, 2000 (PDT):Very good article. Diesel injection systems, while complicated to a certain degree, should not be feared. Think of the injector pump as a "distributor". It delivers fuel to the injectors through strong steel lines. The injectors function at high pressure at critcal timing. The components are made to very tight tolerances and are suseptable to contamination. "Cleanliness is Godliness" with diesel fuel systems. If I'm not mistaken, that is a RoosaMaster injector pump. I trained on them 30 years ago while in the US Army Corps of Engineers at Ft Belvoir. VA, but never had to take one apart in the field!
Aidan Cleary wrote on Wednesday, September 13, 2000 (PDT):Really Enjoyed the article.Great Idea to use photos.What Digital camera did you use? They were very clear pics! Looking forward to the follow on , hang in there !!!! Aidan.
tommy wrote on Saturday, September 16, 2000 (PDT):You really haye to admire Jim's enthusiam undertaking a project like this.I had a similar experience last winter with a JD3020.Lots of headaches but lots of fun.I would do it again.Just a couple of tips,acquire a JD service and aJD operators manual they are still available and worth their weight in gold ,they also contain endless amounts of photos. My second word of advice is when restoring an old tractor ,your totalrestoration cost will often run 2 to 10 times more than you originally planned.
Donnie Williams wrote on Wednesday, September 20, 2000 (PDT):The rust fissures that you mentioned are caused coolant cavitation on the exterior of the liner during engine operation. This is caused by poor quality antifreeze or untreated water for coolant.
ray wrote on Thursday, September 21, 2000 (PDT):my dad and i also have a JD 2010 deisel& 2010 gas in my yard it's been a they have been around the farm and have done everything from cutting hay to spreading manure,logging.and anything you could think of doing on a farm. there are a set of seal in the injector pump that dry out from setting they keep the diesel fuel from going into the crankcase and also keep the oil from blowing up into the injector pump.
Karl Sampson wrote on Saturday, September 23, 2000 (PDT):Hey Jim,great articule.Just letting you know what my new E-mail is Karl Sampson
richard wrote on Sunday, October 01, 2000 (PDT):I have two 2010 dozers i just rebuilt one of them it had cracks in the crank and head i had to replace the cylinders also i did find a used one they are very costly to repair from your pictures you will have to at laest grind the crank and resize or replace the # 4 rod good luck
zack wrote on Monday, October 16, 2000 (PDT): it sounds like you are doinga good job, even though it will cost a litle bit
KEITH STARKS wrote on Thursday, December 28, 2000 (PST):YQU might trying to soke the precleaner in diesel for a few days.Also if you get this tractor running and it has no power or is hard to start you may have to have the injection pump overhauled being that old.We have had to on the 72 4020 and 3020 we own the last few years.Good luck
Joe. wrote on Sunday, January 21, 2001 (PST):On the pre-cleaner problem,we just use a little heat on the part of the cleaner that is atached to the metel tube ,then carefuly work it of.
bill sweet wrote on Monday, February 05, 2001 (PST):Any help or sugestions for my 2010 gas which always over heats and seems to have electrical problems associated with old wires and the positive ground.I'm not even a rookie. In Lapeer Michigan.
arjan de vries wrote on Saturday, February 24, 2001 (PST):I'm from Holland your web side is very good. My grand pa has an old ford. Sometimes i drive it. greating arjan from Holland
Kevin Dick wrote on Monday, March 19, 2001 (PST):Hello everyone,I am a 24 year old college student\commercial fisherman from south jersey. I just bought my first tractor. It's a jd 1010 diesel. I want to restore it but I am having trouble finding parts and books. Any help would be greatly appreciated. By the way, great story on the 2010 rebuild. bunkerkev@aol.com
David Pozzi wrote on Wednesday, August 01, 2001 (PDT):Are you sure that is a 2010? I've been a farmer all my life in Salinas, California. We have a 2010, and two 3020 tractors. Yours looks to be a 3020 from the position of the injection pump. a 3020 has the pump on the right hand side and injectors on that side too. The 2010 has a very small pump and is on the left side with injectors on the left side of the head. The 3020 is a much better tractor with more power and more available parts. The ID plate on the right hand side of the engine should show the model number and serial numbers. Regards, David Pozzi
David Pozzi wrote on Wednesday, August 01, 2001 (PDT):I forgot to mention, just heat the pre cleaner up a bit and smack it on the bottom side with a block of wood. Alternate sides and it should come off, it's just pressed on there.
Terry Hopper wrote on Monday, March 04, 2002 (PST):We to are rebuilding a 2010 gas JD, we have just tore the engine down and have ordered the rebuild kit, gasket kit, and purchased a new manifold for our tractor. We are working on our project as a first. We have recently purchased 10 acres of property and our old JD baby. Boy are we in for a job. Let us know how things are going for you and we will keep you posted on our progress.
bob wrote on Tuesday, March 05, 2002 (PST):really good article, esecially pictures.
Fred Henderson wrote on Saturday, May 04, 2002 (PDT):I own a 1964 RU 2010 gas that needs no restoration. I love the machine and use it each day. It plows the snow from our 800 plus foot driveway in the winter and is being used at present to haul saw logs from out forest. Parts can still be bought from the local JD dealer.
Peter HOWIE wrote on Saturday, July 13, 2002 (PDT):This story sounds familiar. I have restored a John DEERE 2010 and which took me about 12 months and around Aus$3000 give or take a few hundred. The tractor was stripped, sand blasted parts and attachments and then repainted. When I removed the head and sleeves, I found the same problem as you, Electralysis had set into the underside of the head and the sleeves looked similiar if not worse. I was fortunate enough to locate a second hand head that only had one crack in it. The head was sent away for welding and returned. Unfortunately they forgot to machine the inside of the turbulence chambers and when it was put back together I was having problems with compression in the waterways. This took a little time to diagnose the fault and return for machining as the turbulence chamber in number two wasnt sealing. The head was machined about 30,000 and a new set of valves and seals installed. I was able to locate a set of sleeves that appeared to be in better condition than mine that only required honing. Similiar problems with the pistons with cracks running along the sides. Three second hand pistons later and a new set of rings and bearings, I was well onto my way of cranking the old girl over. The injector pump was sent of and reconditioned as to the starter motor. Brakes were removed and sent off for relining. all the filters were replaced and the tractor serviced thoroughly for the first time in a long while I would imagine. A couple of luxuries later, lights etc and rewiring, and a new set of glow plugs, I finally got to crank the old girl over. It was a blissful sound to here the motor crank over but the timing was out and she just wouldnt fire correctly. A few adjustments and finally she purred like a kitten. My chest inflated as I had never totally stripped any motor let alone a diesel tractor before. I was proud as punch. I have only a small 70 acre farm and the tractor doesnt get a lot of work except for slashing and a little ploughing and rotary hoeing. I have currently set up a post rammer on the back to complete some long awaited fencing. The tractor has been running like a dream and has not missed a beat since its restoration. However saying that I have just recently noticed water leaking from the water pump. Wouldnt you know it, the only part that didnt receive any attention has finally packed it in. So I am currently hunting for a pump kit in hope of finishing my fencing before it gets to wet and I cant get on the paddocks. I dont know whether you have removed your air cleaner bowl as yet or not. I found that my air cleaner or dust collection bowl presented some problems as well. I didnt want to break it in the removal process. What I did was give it a good spray with CRC and let it sit overnight prior to attacking it with a well fitted piece of wood on the under side and a few well placed taps with a rubber mallet as the timber was moved around the base. The air cleaner came off without to much difficulty as it is a slip on fit. If I can help with any further advice from my stumbled across experience I would only be to happy to assist if I can. Peter
Alan wrote on Thursday, August 08, 2002 (PDT):Good story and pics and even a little advice!
Jim Greer wrote on Saturday, February 22, 2003 (PST):Good luck don't give up. I to have a 2010 diesel, somewhat "better shape" than yours. I have some blowby but not enough to overhaul. Use only to mow a few acres.My worst problem was with the pto cluthc, Some parts were missing from clutch. I have spent several hours in tractors graveyards. Now working on a 1947 J.D. "a" again clutch problems. Keep it up. Keep us informed.
Howard H. wrote on Wednesday, April 09, 2003 (PDT):Hi! Great story and don't give up! Dad always says just don't get in a hurry with a mechanical project... That's been good advice with all my projects. I'm looking forward to your next chapter!
Howard H. wrote on Wednesday, April 09, 2003 (PDT):By the way - the cylinder pictures seem to show cavitation to me - not just "cracks". I don't know how susceptible a 2010 is to cavitation, but on my Versatile 895 pulling a 45 foot tandem disk, we ruined the engine in the matter of several days by running it without anti-cavitation additive in it. The water will eat right into the cylinder bore like tiny drill bits.
Jim Peppers wrote on Wednesday, April 09, 2003 (PDT):could i get the e-mail address of the author?
Neil wrote on Saturday, May 31, 2003 (PDT):Good reading and nice pictures along the way. I have many enjoyable memories of re-building old engines. Best of luck on your project. Neil
Keith wrote on Friday, June 20, 2003 (PDT):I love the article both the commentary and the pictures are giving this tractor enthusiast, both an education, and entertainment. Please continue the story to the end.
Rob Johnson wrote on Sunday, August 31, 2003 (PDT):G/Day Jim ! Have a talk to Andrew Grogan , from Grogans Machinery 54483535 , he is a good bloke , and knows his stuff. Rob Johnson , near Newstead , Vic.
john otto wrote on Tuesday, November 11, 2003 (PST):try using some penatrating oil (PB Blaster Kryoil)on the breather and dont be afraid to tap it with a hammer the worst you can do is break it keep us posted john otto
Bob wrote on Tuesday, November 11, 2003 (PST):I can appreciate what you are going through! I bought a Diesel 2010, that had major engine trouble. I searched a long time to find a block that wasn't cracked, and after obtaining that, I realized how much it would cost to do it right, so I wound up taking the easy way out. As much as it pained me to do it, I put a gas motor in it, and wound up with a real nice tractor, but not original. I have three 2010 tractors and love them. I have two RU wide fronts, and the "prize" of the fleet, a 1964 rowcrop 2010 rollomatic with 1000 original hours! Good luck, and by the way I have a whole lot of 2010 diesel parts left over from the conversion, so let me know if you are missing anything from an injector pump to steel lines, etc. Bob
Brian Maguire wrote on Wednesday, May 12, 2004 (PDT):dear jim , thanks for writing this article ,its given me the courage to try something similar myself .my story is not unlike your own in many ways .i lived in belfast ,and after major heart surgery my wife and i bought a small farm (smallholding)of 7 acres just outside lisburn ,my hometown . again i hsad some superficial knowledge of petrol engined cars ,but none of diesel engines .but a tractor is very handy --i like their honesty ,the sheer,strength of their construction,their versatility ---you see i love tools and machines ---but i'm scared to tackle things ,because of my mechanical limitations.at present i own an INternational 785 XL,its a great tractor a real snip at an auction and in really good ---restored condition. my friends and neighbours ---particularly ,"the spence family " who are agricultural contractors ,on a small scale ,have been responsible for getting me --"all fired up about older "classic" tractors, geeting involved in tractor shows etc ---so last dec --in response to an advert in tractor and machinery magazine , i bought a completely restored massey ferguson 35 . this guy in england had done a complete nut and bolt restoration ,he had obviously --not undertaken a magnificent job like this ,with a view to selling it ---it was to be his toy ---but his health had deteriorated --he didn't expect to survive his illness and i talked to him on thre phone i paid him his asking price of £3100.00.(about u.s.d.5000)without having seen the tractor !!!!---but my faith has been fully justified ,and the massey is the envy of many .of course the bug has now --well and truly bitten. i have been on a national road run ---talked to lots of other fans . my own health has deteriotated ,so i needed to find some way of coping with the hugh lawn in front of my house (its almost football field size)so another auction has produced a great bargain ---a trailed three gang hydraulically operated --p.t.o. driven mower ---i am currently cutting my lawn in about 30 mins --using the massey ---but its too good--condition to use ---the grass gets everywhere .so now iam looking for another small tractor to operate the gang mower with .i want one thats possible to work on --i think to advance my knowledge of tractors --i'll have to bite the bullet and get stuck in ---just like you . your story so far has been encouraging ,i like your honesty about the things that go wrong --or prove difficult ---like your wet liner /plate removal. i mean these guys who write the textbooks ---do they live in the real world ---they are bound to know --removing this item is difficult ---it wouldn't hurt them to say so ------"now this job may be quite difficult ---and you'll have to blatter the plate with a wooden block to eventually dislodge it "--it would be just nice if they admitted this stuff ,because i end up thinking --iam doing something wrong here ----but i guess space and time , and maybe they are writting for real mechanics --precludes them doing this "S". so i am enjoying looking out for another massey --or a ferguson t 20--or a ford dexta, but maybe i should stick to a massey ---that way --anything i learn will be applicable to my other massey ---anyway i am having a ball of a time . i am looking forward to reading the rest of your story . the book about rebuilding farm tractor engines by spencer yost --i have and read --but am now rereading in greater detail ,and trying to pay attention to what he says , he seems to put great emphassis on storing and marking everything --i have a very poor memory ---how important do you feel this stuff has been ---but maybe as you have not yet rebuilt ,that remains to be seen ."S" any advice or hints you can pass on to me woukld be most welcome , and i wish you every success in your restoration . kindest regards brian maguire back in old ireland. there is a saying here that if wooden pallets and baler twine were taken away from the local farmers, they would be completely helpless . ---as both are used extensively --to repair nearly everything --"S"
andy knaebel wrote on Thursday, September 23, 2004 (PDT):loved your article. Informative and Humorous at the same time. I am looking at a 2010 now. If I buy it, I am hopful you won't mind giving additional adivce.
Craig Thoricht wrote on Tuesday, October 12, 2004 (PDT): Thirty years ago I restored my first tractor- a 1932 John Deere model D. Your story reminds me of that time very much. I had a LOT of fun and learned a great deal. I wouldn't trade that experience for anything. The only way to learn is to do what you are doing and I salute your willing attitude. Craig Thoricht
JOHN HEINE wrote on Wednesday, January 05, 2005 (PST):I just finished rebuildin a John Deere 2010 diesel crawler.Everything new pistons liners new bearings crank and camshaft rebuilt injectorpump
jarmo säde wrote on Wednesday, March 23, 2005 (PST):i have same kind of tractor hear in finland it`s with backhoe and front loader cylinder head is brocken and i cant find replacment at anywhere it`s nice to now that i“am not a only ho has broblem with this jd
Garry Briggs wrote on Tuesday, March 29, 2005 (PST):My 2010 model rus47766 has a small hole halfway up no.3 cylinder that I found by filling the block with water and cranking the engine over by hand. as soon as the piston moved below the hole a steady stream of coolant soon filled the cylinder until the level in the block matched it. My problem is some "experts" who have looked at it say it does not have sleeves . Is this correct and should I start looking for another tractor as they tell me or are sleeves fitted to my model ???
fred wrote on Thursday, October 06, 2005 (PDT):I just love the ol' classic heroic tales of yesteryear, it reminds me strangely of "Zen and Art of Motorcycle Maintenance" except without the yucky human element involving the relationship with the son. It also reminds me of that book where the guy spends a freezing winter in his garage rebuilding an ol' Dodge truck, ya know, the kind with the engine that turns in the opposite way. I am waiting for the rest of the story, I can hardly wait.
jarmo säde wrote on Sunday, December 25, 2005 (PST):now finally i got the parts i need with my jd it was very expensives parts new cylinders was 700 euro and gonrod bearing 400 euro piston rings 420 euros you can count yor self how much i'ts cost at dollars maby i get some pictures at my projects cant wait when i get start it wreal cold conditions at this time in finland -4,5 degrees i had fix out side
John Butler wrote on Thursday, February 16, 2006 (PST):How is the progress I am following with great interest. My tractor is gas but I think it will be very much the same.
Michael wrote on Thursday, November 09, 2006 (PST):The 2010 has been unfairly maligned as "the worst tractor Deere ever built". Yes it had problems. However the 2010 Row Crop Utility (gas engine) my grandfather bought new was actually a fairly good tractor. It was equipped with a heavy duty John Deere front end loader, and we abused it horribly. We used it as one might use a bulldozer, digging our trees, loading manure, moving dirt and rocks, and hundreds of other jobs for which the tractor was really not designed for and it seldom let us down. The gasoline engine was also used on the JD 45 combines. The gas engine in this tractor was far more reliable than the one in our 1964 3020 -- it was always a crap shoot getting that tractor started.
John wrote on Tuesday, February 20, 2007 (PST):This is a great start on this project, but the first comments were September 2000 and I haven t seen any updates on the progress of the rebuild. As is easily seen, there are a lot of us out here wondering what has happened in the past 6+ years. It was a great story, well documented, very honest dialog, and great pics. Don t leave us hanging.
Clyde L Reed Sr wrote on Monday, April 02, 2007 (PDT):I am looking for a Bolster for a J/D 2010 diesel tractor casting number T18222T and T13026T. As well as a radiator a fan for this same 2010 tractor.
PJM wrote on Wednesday, April 18, 2007 (PDT):It sure would be nice if people would show a pic of before and after
Joe Belmarez wrote on Monday, August 06, 2007 (PDT):I just bought a 2010 and even though it has been rebuilt 100%, I am having my doubts,it needs a muffler and I laughed about the exhaust fumes because I am feeling the ill effects as I write this. I ordered a new one for 35 dollars and I also ordered an umberella, since Texas gets too hot for a city fella. I have not shared my doubts with my wife, since I have not told her I paid 7,900 for the tractor. It looks and sounds great and everyone here says I now blend in.
John Nelson wrote on Thursday, August 09, 2007 (PDT):Good Job! Your story is fun, easy to read, and informative!
Dave Pearson wrote on Thursday, April 17, 2008 (PDT):The "rust fissures" are caused by static charges building up and holding oxygen in a bubble against the metal. The additive is an electrolyte to disperse the static.
Kirk J, Hoefer wrote on Thursday, April 17, 2008 (PDT): Your article from Mr. Nielson on rebuilding his JD 2010 Is delightful. We live in a small community 1 hour south of Seattle Wash. and the pace down here is still slow. sounds like where Mr N. is from to. and there is plenty of time to get the replacement parts and all the time in the world to get it done like here in Olalla. His commentary on taking the tractor to the scrape yard late at night if it doesn't work out is awesome. sounds like how a few of my projects have ended up. BUT he is going to have an almost Rolls Royce Type of tractor when he gets done. no doubt of it. I applaude his efforts and wish him the very best in this great endevor. and you folks can definatly count on my "Staying Tuned" for his next installment. Thanks for some great reading. Kirk
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Dave in CT wrote on Saturday, April 11, 2009 (PDT):Great article. Would like to hear how the finish turned out. I've a neighbor who owns a 2010 backhoe (gas). We just got it started after it was sitting for 2 yrs. Wondering why it was known to others as a bad model for JD.
Michael Bridges wrote on Sunday, April 19, 2009 (PDT):The pitting in the sleeves is NOT due to rust. It is the result of cavitation. A odd phenomenon that occurs inside a diesel engine when the proper additives are not used in the coolant. It will happen again if the proper additives are not used. I use an additive in all my diesels called pencool 3000.
Jerry Rebbeck wrote on Tuesday, June 16, 2009 (PDT):I have a JD 2010 1966 Model for sale with only low 3000 hours time on the clock. Do you know any one who would be interested? it is in the Lucindale S A area. work hours phone 08 83380124
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