The carburetor kit for the TSX-241A/B/C carburetor is being supplied in only one flavor nowadays. It includes a replacement throttle shaft, new butterfly valve screws, fuel inlet filter, new float needle and seat, new float pin and gaskets.

The rebuild kits are manufactured by TISCO (BK45V) and are available from tractor supply houses that sponsor Yesterday's Tractors 8N Discussion Board, and also manufactured by Sorenson and carried on special order by AutoZone and the like.

How you remove the carburetor from your tractor will depend on your particular model/year. There are two linkage shafts that connect to the carburetor, one to the governor and one to the choke control on the dash. Each of these shafts terminate in a spring loaded socket that will release the ball on the carburetor throttle shaft or choke shaft when the endcap is pulled against the spring.

A rigid steel fuel line connects to the carburetor fuel strainer elbow. Be sure the fuel shutoff valve in in the closed position, and use a flare nut wrench to remove the flare fitting at the elbow without damaging it. Note the position of the elbow for reassembly, later. Loosen the clamps that hold the air hose onto the carburetor air inlet horn and work the hose loose. Remove the two nuts that retain the carburetor to the intake manifold on the engine. Work the carburetor down and away from the manifold until the studs are clear and the carburetor is free from the air inlet hose.

Remove the idle mixture screw/needle, spring and gasket, the power mixture screw/needle, spring and gaskets, and the fuel strainer/elbow.

Carefully scrape off any gasket material on the manifold and its mating surface on the carburetor. Any gasket material left on either the manifold or carburetor will cause an air leak after reassembly.

Remove the 4 machine screws that hold the upper and lower carburetor bodies together. Gently separate the bodies taking care not to damage or bend the brass float inside the upper body.

A steel pin holds the float in the upper body. Slide the pin out of its ears to release the float. Shake the float and listen for any liquid inside the floats. If there is liquid inside either float, replace the float and set in a safe place.

Underneath the float and held in by the float tang is the float needle. Pull it out and compare it to the new one in the rebuild kit. The needle will either be made entirely of steel or will have a rubber tip. Either version will work fine.