Yesterday's Tractors - The Ford 9N Engine Rebuild Chronicle

Axle assembly rolled away.

Begin removing the remaining engine accessories...

Remove the distributor. No need to worry about what position the camshaft is in, when it is reinstalled, the distributor tang will align properly to the cam shaft.
Remove the large hex and withdraw the oil pressure regulator plunger and spring. The plunger has a flat spot on it which is normal. Buy a new spring before reassembly. The oil pressure was from 50 psi cold to 12 psi hot at working rpm, and now is 43 psi cold to 35-38 psi hot at working rpm. I'm sure now the governor and camshaft gear is receiving more oil. An old spring would not provide the proper oil pressure.

Governor removed.

Remove the spark plug wire tube and disconnect the coil wire. Lay the tube and wires back away from the engine. If they are in good shape, there should be no need to remove the wires from the tube. Remove the starter (opposite side).

Remove the manifold and carburator. Remove the cylinder head. Depending how you want to lift the engine with a hoist, you may want to leave the cylinder head on prior to engine removal. You can attach the hoist chain and bracket to a manifold stud on one side and a oil canister cap screw to the other side. On reassembly, I used a ring with threaded studs that was attached to the cylinder head center. You can see from this image the cylinder head bolt threads are badly damaged. The threads in the block were damaged also which required drilling and installation of a threaded insert.
Cylinder #1 and #2 (right to left). Notice heavy carbon and oil escaping by the rings of #2. The blue smoke was apparent every so often, but not enough to foul the plug.

Part One (Continued): Tearing Down the Engine
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