Yesterday's Tractors - The Ford 9N Engine Rebuild Chronicle

Disconnect and remove the battery. Do not set the battery on a concrete floor or near an area that will freeze. For some reason the concrete floor causes degredation of the battery, at least that's what I've read, but it sounds like an old wives tale to me. Apparently this applied to batteries without the cases of today. Remove the hood.
Drain the gas from the tank through the fuel line. It takes a while but there is no chance of spill. This was done when the garage door was open. Do not open any containers of flammable liquids in an enclosed space and where open flames could be present.

Disconnect the air cleaner and muffler clamp. Start keeping all the parts in ziplock bags and mark them with a pen. This manifold had a rusted out spot beside the #4 exhaust port that could not be filled enough not to leak. I kept the old one and bought a new manifold for around $68.
Remove the generator.

Drain the radiator and coolant from the petcock to the right of the oil filter canister. Remove the bottom hose. Drain the crankcase oil.
Place a floor jack under the transmission, raise the tractor just enough to remove the weight on the front wheels. Wood blocks then support the housing. Remove the foot rests and running boards. You can also replace the hydraulic pump inspection cover gaskets now if they appear to be leaking.

Remove the steering arm rods.

Remove the top radiator hose and pull away the axle assembly with one person holding each radius rod. The assembly is not heavy but akward as the wheels will want to turn in opposite directions, often to the center. Two people can hold one hand on the radius rod and the other hand on the wheel to keep it pointing forward. The radiator must be from an 8N which is pressurized. I'll replace it with the correct radiator if I ever find one.

Part One: Tearing Down the Engine
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